Zip It!!!

While the girls are compiling their fashion month reports, I thought I'd do a quick tutorial on zippers. In the world of doll fashion where most designers use snaps, hooks and velcro, a dress with a zipper is a luxury item. It's not that they are difficult to put them in. The problem--and expense--lies in finding doll sized zippers. Not an easy task. And when you do find them---well....even though they are 1/6 the size of a normal zipper--they certainly are not 1/6 the price! Yes, they are small, but they are ever as complex as the real thing.

I have been to fabric and notions stores everywhere looking for 1/6 zippers.  I will tell you now, you will have to order them online. For this post, I bought metal separating and metal regular zippers at I Sew For Dolls. (Located in the US, they ship fast. My order was perfect.) There are three other online sources that sell them as well. (Their websites are listed under Tutorials-Fab Favorite Resources.) Prior to buying 1/6 scale, I have to admit I've used 4"(10 cm) pant or jean zippers. They are the same length as doll size however, the teeth and zipper pulls are a bit large on the doll. The image above on the left shows the difference between human and doll zippers. On the right, the nylon zipper teeth are closer in scale, however the zipper pull is out-sized and I have yet to figure out how remove it! Nonetheless, the pant zipper is perfect for a 16" doll dress and will make do for the 12" doll inasmuch as it is sewn in the back which is out of view.

The Dress Zipper
Let's start with something simple. Whether you use a 1/6th zipper or a 4" (10cm) pant zipper, putting it in is the same.

1. Using a long, running stitch, baste the center back seam of your dress closed. No matter what happens, this ensures the zipper will line up perfectly with the center back seam of your dress.
2. Make sure the zipper is zipped shut and lay it face down against the seam of the dress. Leave a small space at the top of the dress (about 1/4" or 5mm) near the neckline.
3. Baste each side of the zipper to the corresponding side of the center back seam.
4. Working your way down one side of the back (about 1/8" (3mm) clear of the center back, stitch the zipper to the dress, using a tiny back-stitch. This is, in effect, a top stitch. (Note: You can also top-stitch using a sewing machine. Just be sure to use a zipper foot.)
5. When you get to where the zipper pull is, move it down a little then continue to stitch the zipper to the dress until you have finished. Repeat on the opposite side being care to create a line of stitches equally spaced from the center back seam.

6. You can finish the dress as you would normally. However, if you have gone through the trouble of buying zippers for your clothes, maybe you should consider putting in a lining! I've sewn my lining in as usual, leaving the space down the center back seam. I fold the lining's center back seams inward and pin so the bottom of the zipper is exposed and clear from the fabric. You want to get close to the zipper but far enough away so that the lining doesn't get caught.
7. I've hand stitched everything down. And at the top of the zipper---a hook and eye keeps it all closed and neat!

The Separating Zipper
Whereas you can probably get away with using a human sized 4" zipper to close the back of the dress, a separating zipper--that which is used for jackets--is another story! (If you attempt to use a regular zipper, the doll won't be able to get out of the jacket!) When you find a 1/6 separating zipper, it is a truly remarkable item worth the price. Fully functional and perfectly scaled, the doll jacket because a true miniature marvel. Putting this in is easy provided you remember to keep the zipper closed in the first few steps!

1. The material or fabric you use will determine the option you should chose. If you are working with a woven fabric that ravels at the edges, I would opt for the same instructions we used for the back zipper. But for this jacket, I am using python printed and stamped vinyl. Whether vinyl, plastic or leather, you don't have to worry about frayed edges but you do have to be concerned about bulk. So for this exercise, I am simply aligning the cut edge of the jacket against each side of the zipper. I pin the inside of the seams to the jacket.
2. Repeat on the other side, being careful that the two sides of the jacket line up perfectly.
3. Baste the jacket to the zipper. Check to make sure the zipper can move up and down smoothly without getting jammed.

4. If you are going to use a machine to top stitch this down, be sure to use a zipper foot. My machine is old, but your zipper foot will look similar to this. The zipper foot is more narrow than the regular one.
5. It is designed to hold the fabric/zipper down while leaving the needle free to stitch without obstructions. You can also elect to hand stitch this as we did with the dress zipper.

Waris can wear this jacket open and over a matching skirt. Or she can lend it to her girlfriend, Katoucha who wears it zipped up over pair of a silk abstract printed pair of trousers.

There are times, however, when putting in a zipper is more complicated. As an inspiration for my next project, I found a photo of a biker's jacket I wanted to make for my guys.

This was a bit of a challenge. The zipper is at a slight angle. The left lapel folds inward and the jacket zips up to the tip of the shoulder. Note how the zipper runs along one edge of the lapel but not the other. And to boot---it's all in leather!!!

This is a version of the pattern I used. Inasmuch as this is a tutorial on zippers, I decided to use a simplified version so as not to confuse you with umpteen pattern pieces. The principle for putting in the zipper, however, remains the same. The zipper is sewn into a seam on one side and is part of the lapel on the other. I cut (my) left side in two (blue line) and added seam allowance to both pieces. The zipper will lie against where you see the fuzzy green line. (The lapel folds over where you see the fold line.)

1. Using chalk, I drew in the seam allowance on the side front pattern. This provides a guide for the placement of the zipper.
2. I lightly press that line to further help me with my placement of the zipper.
3. In this instance, I open the separating zipper and place one side of it onto the side front panel. The teeth are facing inward--the seam allowance of the zipper placed along the seam of the side front jacket panel. I pin then baste the zipper onto the jacket (place pins on the seam allowance away from the stitch line). Even with lightweight leather, you will need to use a thimble.
4. My center front panel (which also has the lapel extension) goes on top and the zipper is sandwiched in the middle. I baste all three layers together using a long running titch. Basting keeps everything together as you sew the jacket together.
5. Now sew.
6. When you are finished and you turn the jacket to the right side up, the zipper teeth to the right.

6. Hammer the seams flat, being careful to avoid the zipper teeth.
7.  Turn the left front and left side front right side out.
8. Zip the two sides of the zipper shut.
9. Place the right jacket front over the zipper and pin to the seam allowance. Carefully unzip the zipper and baste in place. Again, the zipper teeth should be facing inwards, away from the front edge.
10. Place the facing over the right jacket front with the zipper sandwiched in between and sew.
11. Clip the seam allowance around the tip of the lapel. Turn right side out. Use a pin to completely turn out the lapel tip. The zipper teeth should be now pointing outward towards the center front. Hammer the lapel flat.
12. Complete the jacket.

When All Else Falls, Fake It!

I could have stopped there, but you know me. There's always one more thing I want to try. What if....you are somewhere and those lovely doll zippers are not available. What if, your doll could care less about functionality and he (or she) simply wants the look of hardware.....

 1. I started out by removing a metal zipper from an old, very decrepit pair of my dad's jeans. You can just go out and buy one if nothing is readily available. n any case, you should use a zipper that is color coordinated to the outfit you want to sew it in. Zip up the zipper so that the teeth are closed. Measure out the length you need and make a series of stitches around that point so the zipper won't unravel after you cut it. You need to do this at both ends.
2. Pin one side to the center front edge of the jacket.
3. Sew in place. On the other side of the zipper teeth, sew or glue a strip of velcro directly onto the zipper tape.
4. Add the other half of the velcro to the inside edge of the jacket.

The jacket can't be zipped up or down. The velcro holds it closed and simply gives the LOOK of a zippered jacket while allowing the doll to get in and out of it. And why not fake the look of zippered pockets!?!

1. This time, I took a bit of the zipper but left it open.
2. I placed each piece on the jacket for placement. When I have the placement I want, I used pins to indicate the line of the pocket.
3. On the inside, I mark those pin points with pencil. And connect the dots with a cutting line.
4. Using a blade or very sharp small scissors, slice open this line.
5. Now slide in the zipper sample.
6. This is how it looks right side up.
7. Stitch along the bottom of the opening.

If you try this out for your design, keep in mind you will need to allow for the extra space the zipper will take up in the front!

All text and photos property of Fashion Doll Stylist. Copyright 2018. Please ask permission before reposting. And please credit us. Thank you!

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Leather Weather 2.0

Over the past five and a half years, I’ve had the pleasure of sharing my ventures into doll fashion creation with all of you. When I start this blog there was very little Information on 1/6th scale clothing construction so I found myself often making things up as I went along with nothing but basic dressmaking to back me up. As I quickly discovered, many of the rules for making full sized clothes must be modified for the doll…particularly when it comes to specialty items like….leather wear for example.

In 2013, I did two posts on the subject: “Warm Leatherette,” working with vinyl, then two months later, “Leather Weather." I explored working with real leather and literally glued each garment together. This exercise gave me a clue as to why doll companies do not sell leather clothing. And while those two posts satisfied my dolls’ appetite for full-sized women’s leather goods, it was far from perfect. Over the last few years, however, my leather work has improved! One fine day, while admiring the work of another artisan on Instagram, I learned her secret to making consistently good leather wear.

Thin is in!

“I use glove weight, kidskin leather,” a friend told me. “It sews just like fabric.” Yep, the success of leather goods for dolls depends on the quality of leather! Of course it would!!! Skins that are between 1/64-1/32” is perfectly scaled to the doll! But where to find it? Me, I’m lucky. Each time I’m in Paris I head for my favorite store: “Au Gentlemen des Cuirs (4 bis, rue d’Orsel), situated in the fabric district where I can buy small scraps. BHV-Le Marais department store in Paris, also has a bin of leather scraps in the basement! And..the last time I was in New York City, Mood Fabrics (225 W. 37th St. 3rd floor)  had a small box of scraps where a found a few interesting skins. Otherwise, search online for “thin leather.” I found a vendor, Rio Rondo who, besides its very “cowboy-general-store” catalog,  also caters to miniature leather crafters. They sell a product known as “Skiver” (thinly shaved leather) sold in squares. There is a limited number of colors, but they say all of their products can be dyed. I also took a peak at an old, American brand, Tandy Leathers which sells something called “Lining Leather.” These are paper thin skins used to line the interiors of wallets! Like everything else, there are vendors on Etsy and EBay. Do a search for “thin leather” then look for 1oz weight, though 1-1/2 to 2 oz (a little easier to find) is okay as well. If you don’t see any indication of the leather’s weight….don’t buy it because it is probably too thick!

Lay It Out
Leather as thin as fabric means you can make just about anything. Glove weight leather will drape around the body with ease and can be fashioned into high fashion looks. Slightly thicker skins mean you should stick to a super simple pattern with few pieces. Princess seaming is not only okay, it’s a great way to get a good fit. Unless it’s a pattern you’ve used it before, make your garment in muslin first to ensure everything fits.

Leather has no real “grain,” but it does have stretch. You don’t have to worry about each piece laying exactly straight, but you will want to ensure each piece has stretch where you want it.

No placing a pattern on the fold. Use single piece patterns (the back all in one piece, for example) instead. You cannot pin your pattern to the leather. So place your pattern on the backside and to trace off the pattern with chalk.

If there many pieces, number each one so you know what goes where and what side is up when ready to assemble.

Use very sharp shears to cut. Use tape or clips to hold the ends together as you assemble.

For thicker leathers (1.5-2 oz), choose patterns with as few pieces as possible. My simplified one piece skirt pattern is still a favorite!

Sew It Up

The wonderful thing about super thin leather is that it sews as easily as fabric on a regular domestic machine. Use “leather” needles (12/80) which are wedge shaped and super sharp to keep from ripping the material. You’ll also want to use a slightly longer stitch than usual.
1 & 3. If you have a Teflon or roller foot for your machine, all the better, otherwise you can improvise by putting a bit of scotch tape on the bottom of your regular pressure foot. This helps to keep the leather sliding without getting stuck.
2. Tape your pieces together and just before the stitching arrives near the tape, remove it and continue sewing.
5. Or place the tape on the sides, out of the way of the stitching line.
6. Personally, I have not had those issues. Instead I usually have problems with the leather getting stuck on the bottom feed plate. put tissue paper on the seam lines and sew. Rip away when you are finished. I should point out, there are no “do-overs.” Once the needle pierces the leather, it’s leaves a hole. So be really careful. Tip: Angle the end of the seams near intersections so that when you sew, there is less bulk to sew through.

 6b. You cannot iron the seams flat (and even if you can, they'll still pop up), so apply rubber cement to the seam and the area it will fold onto. Let the rubber cement on both surfaces dry a bit.
7. Press the seam open with your fingers and press down.
8. This is what it looks like on the right side.
9. Angle the seams near points of intersection. This helps reduce bulk at points when you have two sets of seams coming together.

Of course straight seams are easy. But what happens when you add sleeves??!!!

 1. This is why thin leather is way better. It is easier to control! First, be sure to turn up the hem of the sleeve and use rubber cement to hold in place. Then use a threaded needle (double thread, knotted at the end) and a thimble. Using the same color thread as your garment, make a running stitch on the cap of the sleeve. Gather slightly.

2. Place tape to hold the sleeve onto the garment armhole.

3. Again, using a threaded needle and thimble (to protect your finger as you push the needle through the leather), baste the sleeve to the garment using a running stitch. Stitch the sleeve cap into the jacket as usual.

4. Fold the garment down, matching the underarm seams and tape. Then sew as usual.

5. Put a pencil through the sleeves. Apply the rubber cement along the seams.

6. Press the seams open.

7. Attach a safety pin to the seam allowance of the sleeve hem. Close and push the pin through the sleeve until you can take hold of it on the other end.

8. Pull the pin through.

9. Keep working it until the sleeve is right side up. Remove the pin.

Finish it off

Most of the leather clothes I make for my dolls are unlined. I feel the leather is bulky enough without adding another layer.

1. Leather doesn't fray. I've simply turned down the edges starting with the hem. On the front edge of the jacket, I trimmed away that little bit of the hem that overlaps front edge.
2. Fold (and glue) the front edge.
3. Trim away the part of the front edge that extends beyond the hem for a clean finish.
4. For curved edges, clip before folding over.

As I stated earlier, you are not obliged to finish off the edges or the hem. It all depends on the look you are going for.

Princess seaming adds shape and fit to the jacket. The leather is thin enough to drape a sarong skirt. Even though I have not turned up the hems of either, the suit still looks complete.

For the sake of this project, I decided to line one of the dolls' existing jackets.

Remember, linings add structure and bulk. So you might want to reserve them for more loosely fitted or more tailored garments. If you are using a super fine leather, you can do a edge to edge lining the same way you would do for a fabric garment.  For Vanessa's jacket, however, my leather was a tad bit thick (2oz) so I decided to use a method I noted in one of my own leather jackets. The idea behind this--when you dry clean the jacket--different chemicals are used for the leather and others for the lining. Also, the lining will become soiled before the outer part of the garment. I am using this method because it makes stitching the lining in by hand easier on the fingers.

1. Use bias tape or cut a 1/2" (1cm) bias strip of cotton fabric. Hold in place with tape. Or here...I've used those doll-sized clothes pins.
2. Baste the tape along the neckline.
3. Put rubber cement along the seam line of the neckline, leaving the fabric loose. You are gluing down the seam but not bias strip. Make two more strips and baste to the front edges of the jacket. Fold and glue the edges down.

4. When you are finished, the inside of the garment will resemble this.
5. Make your lining. Finish the hem. Then fold and iron or baste the edges down.
6. Pin the lining to the fabric strips around the jacket, adjusting it until it fits the inside of the jacket. Sew the lining onto the fabric strip with the exception of the hem. Leave the lining to swing free from the hem of the jacket. Tack the seam of the lining sleeve to that of the jacket sleeve. (If you are making a jacket with set in sleeves, you can omit the lining sleeves, turn the armholes down and lining to the armhole seams of the jacket.

Of course, you could forget about the lining and simply leave the edges as is!

You'll still end up with a pretty good looking garment!

Closures
You can still use velcro to close dolly's leather wear if you so choose. But you have other options as well.

 1. For front closing garments, you can always use buttons and buttonholes! Here, I use brads (found in craft stores). Bend the stems to leave a little space between the surface of the jacket and the head...which, by the way, you can paint to match the garment.
2. Cut tiny slits (with a razor or seam ripper) on the opposite side of the front opening, just wide enough to bring the button through! Instead of buttons, you can always thread small bits of leather through a hole then knot on both sides to create your own buttons as well!
3. This jacket was made using a vinyl square I found at the craft store. The same rules for making leather garments apply to faux leather, plether or vinyl! I used a brad for the button.
4. For this jacket where the jacket meets together at the center front, I didn't have a separating zipper, so I hand sewed in a tiny hook and eye.

Collared!

Collars present another challenge. Unless you are working with very thin leather and can add a facing to the collar, there is a shortcut.
1. The shawl collar is an ideal solution for when you want to add a collar.
2. This is a modified version of the shawl collar used to give the illusion of a notched collar (found in many tailored jackets). It is the same as the shawl with a notch cut out. What I have done is to start out with a V-neck collarless jacket.
3. I draped this collar around the doll's neck to get the shape and with width I wanted to come up with this pattern. I have put a center back seam so I can adjust it if necessary. But if you know the collar is a perfect fit, you can easily make a pattern where it is in one piece without that seam.
4-5. The collar is then added to the jacket along the neckline. I lay the collar wrong side up against the underside of the jacket and topstitch in place. I turned down (and glued in place) the outer edge of the collar. When you are finished, the collar is rolled back over the neckline and looks perfect!
6. Again, this leather was a tad bit thick, so I had to hammer the edges (and seams) flat. Place tissue paper over the inside seams then use a mallet or hammer to bang everything flat.

Pockets

Buttonhole pockets in leather garments are very easy to create and they look great!

1. Start out by first deciding on the width of your pocket. Then, using a blade, carefully slash the placement of the pocket. Cut out a small square, the same width as your pocket with. For the final length of the flap, you need to multiply 3 times. Fold two-thirds and glue, leaving one-third free.

2. Slide the flap through the slit upwards. Diagram #2 shows what this looks like on the inside of the garment. The flap is facing upwards. The red lines indicate the part of the flap exposed on the other side.

3. Right side up this is what it looks like. Glue the top part of the flap to the inside of the jacket. Note: if you include a vest pocket, the flap goes in the opposite direction. That is, the flap points upwards on the outside (downwards inside). 

Hammer Time

With super thin leather you can iron the seams on a low setting (cover the leather with tissue paper first), but for anything thicker (2 oz) it’s best to glue down the seams and hems with rubber cement then hammer it flat. Again, protect the leather by putting a cloth over it before hammering.

Finish it Off

The jean jacket in metallic leather! The level of detail makes this jacket something special!

Assuming you have a steady hand…topstitching adds a nice finish to structured styles (jackets, coats). Tip: If you’re adding patch pockets, it’s better to topstitch them first then glue or hand tack them in place on the finished garment afterwards.

Patch pockets are tricky! Here's a tip. Cut the pockets out and top stitch them before you put them onto the garment. Then simply tack them in place. This way, if you make a mistake, you don't ruin the entire garment!

Finally....everything we discussed today....can be applied to faux leather! But just remember to choose those which are lightweight and scaled to the doll!

All text and photos property of Fashion Doll Stylist. Copyright 2018. Please ask permission before reposting. And please credit us. Thank you!

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist
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Neck & Neck

Prior to joining our crew in Milan, I wanted to pause for another tutorial on neckline treatments. For a long time, there hasn't been anything special (aside from one shouldered gowns) with necklines. Increasingly however, I'm beginning to see dresses and tops sporting a variety of necklines. What really prompted me to do this project was the sublime gown by Balmain worn on the Oscar red carpet by the iconic actress, Jane Fonda.

This dress is really super simple....a body grazing sheath with a two eye-popping details: square shoulders and a sharply cut neckline. Before we get to that dress, let's first look at how different necklines are designed into a garment.

We must go back to our basic slopers. Whatever happens in the front will impact the back in most cases.

Square Neckline.
1. Place the front and back slopers end to end at the shoulders.
2. Make a mark at the mid point of the shoulder line, another on the center front (as far down as you want) and another on the center back (as far down as you want). Make a horizontal line across the bodice from the mark on the center front and the center back Those lines should run perpendicular to those vertical lines. Draw a diagonal line to join the first two lines as shown in diagram #2.
3. The pattern will look like this.
4. Add seam allowance.

Sweetheart Neckline
5. This is pretty much the same method. It begins by placing a mark roughly 1" (2cm) down from the neck on the shoulder and another as far down the center front line as you want. Draw another line perpendicular to the shoulder as far down as you would like, and then a curved line from that point to the mark on the center front.
6. Place the back sloper end to end along the shoulder of the front sloper. Draw a horizontal line on the center back (where you made a mark). Starting where the line falls on the shoulder from the front sloper, continue that line until it intercepts with the horizontal line extending out from the center back.

Bateau neckline
It is hardly noticeable. But actually, this is a wide neckline with just the right amount of rise in the front over the throat and a graceful dip at the nape of the neck in the back.
7. Mark the mid-point on the shoulder line of both the front and back slopers. On the front sloper, make a mark that is 1/8" (3mm) above the center front point at the neck. Draw a new line
8. On the back sloper, make a mark that is 1/8" (3mm) down from the neck on the center back and draw a new line.
9. Trace off. Then add seam allowance to complete the pattern.

Finishing Touches: Fold and sew (or glue)
Now that you know how to do necklines, how do you finish them?  A full, edge to edge lining is  ideal, but not always practical. Moreover, depending on the style, not all clothes need to be lined. So you have two other options. If the lines are simple and the fabric isn't too complicated, you can simply turn the edge down and stitch or (fabric) glue down and iron. Tip: Join the garment together at the shoulders. Press, then turn and stitch or glue while the garment is flat. Then sew the sides and complete the garment.

Finishing touches: Facings
I hesitate to recommend facings because often, they add bulk around the neckline. But if you don't want to line the outfit and the design is such that you cannot simply fold and stitch (which is the case of our sweetheart along with more complex necklines), then a facing will suffice.

 1. Facings are created by tracing off the top part of the pattern while avoiding darts. In diagram one, the red dotted line indicates the part of the original pattern I will use to create the facing for this bodice. Make sure the length at the side seams are equal from front to back.
2. Here's the pattern for the facing.
3. When you have a pattern with a more involved design--like the sweetheart neckline pictured here--you should mark the design directly onto the wrong side of the fabric because you really must respect the sewing lines. Sew the facing along the shoulder line only. Sew the garment along the shoulder line only. Press the shoulder seams flat. Place right side of the facing to the right side of the garment and pin. Then carefully sew the two elements together.

4. Very carefully clip around the neckline. Turn right side out.
5. Press well, one section at a time.
6. Baste or pin along the neckline edge.
7. Make tiny cuts around the armholes of both the facing and that of the garment. Press each inwards.
8. Pin the edges of the armhole facing together with those of the garment.
9. Using a single thread (needle and thread) sew the two together. Press well.

10. Once you have finished the neckline and armhole edges, fold the garment down and stitch the sides (and back).

When you have finished, you will have a neckline that is shaped like the top of a heart over the bustline and is square in the back. This was a very popular look in the 1940's, especially coupled with puffy "leg of muffin" short sleeves! Sometimes over the years, it tends to fall out of favor. But you can modify it to serve your needs. For the gorgeous velvet dress below, designed by New York designer, Brandon Maxwell and worn by Viola Davis for this year's Golden Globes, a lot of you (and me) fell in love with the look.

Creating what appears starts out as a "slip dress" in 1/6 scale, particularly in velvet, is quite a challenge. So I made a modified version of the "sweetheart" neckline. And since stretch velvet doesn't fray, I didn't need to do anything special to finish the edges. Note: only seam allowance has been added to the shoulders and the sides. There is enough stretch in the fabric for the doll to slip into the dress without the need of a back opening. So the dress is only made of two pattern pieces!

I started with the (dartless) knit sloper. Then modified it by redrawing the neckline using the same "heart shaped" design, but with slim "straps" over the shoulders.

Behind the Design: That Balmain Dress

Okay, I know....you came here to find out how to make THAT dress......

Even though Jane Fonda's dress has a bit of a train in the back, I decided to keep the basic dress as a long sheath. If you really want, you can add a wedge of jersey (in the same color) into the center back just under the knee. But for me, the drama of this dress is really the power shoulders and the dramatic neckline.

1. This is one of those rare occasions where the design of the front doesn't impact the back. That is because the dress is close to the back of her nape in the back and drops down and wide in sharp points in the front. So, I begin with the zig zag design in the front. Be careful not to draw the zig zag too small or the design won't be too visible when you have finished.

2. The back sloper remains unchanged.

3. Because this dress has square power shoulders, you must lift and square off the original shoulder line. Line up the front and back slopers so that the shoulder points align as shown.

4. The top of the shoulders run horizontal (and perpendicular to the rest of the sloper. Extend the curve of the armhole to meet the top of the shoulder.

5. Take the redesigned front and overlap it with the back along the center lines. Note the difference in height. Raise the front and lower the back so that both slopers are equal in length at the shoulder line.

6. Redraw the pattern.

7. Line up the front and back bodice patterns along the new shoulder line. We cannot have the armhole come to a point, so make a mark about 1/8" (3mm) from the widest point on the shoulder.

8. Make a mark 1/8" away from the bottom of the armhole on both the front and back pattern. Draw a line from that point back down to the waist of the pattern. Now redraw the armhole

9. Because these are padded shoulders and we have lifted the shoulder line, we must lift the cap of the sleeve. Whatever the amount your shoulders were lifted--1/2" (1 cm) in this case, you add to the top of the sleeve. The best way to do this is by tracing off the original pattern. Then sliding the sloper 1/2 along the center line and tracing off part of the cap. Redraw to that the lines blend.

Here is my finished pattern. Unless your fabric has a lot of body, you will need to make and sew in shoulder pads. You can find them HERE.

Well, the girls are waiting for us in Milan to show us their faves from the Italians' Fashion Week. We'll see you all there in a few!!!

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