Behind the Design: The Moschino Staple Dress

There was a really fun dress we spotted at the Spring/Summer '19 Moschino fashion show. And, it was a dress that solicited lots of attention! Inspired by fashion atelier objects, it was a basic black sheath dress covered with rows of needles. I wanted to make this dress but knew I would not be able to find needles this tiny. So, I gave a lot of thought as to what I could use that would capture the look. After much reflection, I settled on...staples!

Making this dress is simple enough. But you'll need lots of time and patience and, of course, lots of staples!

This project starts out with a basic strapless sheath dress. In order to replicate the look, I did alter the neckline a bit but a simpler neckline will prove to be easier to make. Stitch the dress together at the side seams and iron flat.

I used the biggest staples I had )1/2' (1cm) in the house and a stapler in good, working condition. Cut strips of felt a tiny bit smaller than the staples. In this case I chose felt because I wanted to staples to hold onto something without sliding around too much.
Cut each strip from edge to edge of the dress.
Cut enough strips to cover the dress from the neckline to just above the hemline. \
Begin stapling from the midpoint of each strip to the edge. Repeat on the other side. Be careful not to staple on top of the preceding staple or you will eventually have problems with the stapler. Adjust the staples...pushing them together AFTER they have been stapled down.

 Once you have enough stapled strips, begin pinning each strip from the bottom of the dress up.

 Hand stitch each row onto the dress until you have covered the entire dress. If you have designed peaks over the bust line, make tiny strips and carefully fit them in and hand sew. I finished off the top of the dress with a strip of tulle.

When you have finished, fold one edge down and hand sew over the seam allowance of the other side, as close as possible to the staples.

I purposely chose silver staples for this dress, but remember, you can always opt for copper staples if you want a bit of color! And...Contrary to what it seems, I did not come close to using up a whole box of staples! On the other hand, this dress does have a bit of weight to it.

Up next.....the first red carpet event of the year. The Golden Globes!!!! Stay tuned!!!

All photos and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2019. Please ask permission first before reposting and please always credit us. Thank you.

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Variations of a Theme: Margiela Remix

I'm always looking for new, more simplified ways to create interesting doll fashions. As I stated in the previous post, I've never been what you would call a Martin Margiela fan. However, after seeing the way a few concepts could be adapted into some truly refined looks for Hermes, I decided to delve more deeply into how I could translate some of these into "quick and easy" styles for dolly....items requiring a minimum of fabric AND a minimum of sewing....but still look CHIC!!!

The Duvet Coat

I was intrigued by this coat. The concept behind the design was based on a down comforter (duvet)--a square that wraps around the body for warmth, with the option of outer covers. The coat has a simple silhouette. It is a rectangular shape with sleeves made from a basic fabric like muslin with optional "covers" to transforms the coat into a raincoat, something suitable for day or embellished for evening wear. While it makes no sense for the doll--each outer cover is the same amount of work as making a whole coat--I do like the idea of the basic design--a square or rectangle with two sleeves and no seams! For those of you following this blog who can neither sew very well nor have the time to construct a garment, this is ideal!

For my coat, I began with a square piece of paper. Fold in half to mark the center line then place the doll on top and mark the placement of the armholes.
The sleeves are essentially tubes, the same circumference as the armholes with one end cut on a slight angle. The circumference of the armhole can be whatever you want but will depend on the thickness of your chosen fabric. For this coat, I used a crisp cotton muslin. I chose a narrower sleeve because it helps keep this, rather unstructured garment, on the doll. The circumference measurement is 2" 52mm) while the circumference for the sheepskin version (shown later on) is 3" (8cm). I make a stitch around the sewing line on the coat to keep each hole from stretching while you set in the sleeves.

You'll note that the sleeves fit further down on the arm and the top of my "duvet coat" slopes down from the nape of the neck to the shoulders. It is an unusual cut which adds to the charm of this avant-garde look. In able to get the collar to drape in such lovely folds in the front, I have cheated a little with tiny stitches on the lower corners of the folds!
Also Note: If you want a "cleaner finish" on the inside of the coat--make the exterior separately from the lining using a slightly larger armhole. Fit the two layers together right side to right side. Stitch around the edge (leaving a space where you can turn everything right side out). Poke the sleeves of the lining through the exterior and hem at the cuffs.

This coat has so many styling possibilities depending on the fabric you choose. For example...I found a piece of sheepskin. Normally this is pretty difficult--not to mention bulky--to sew. So eliminating the seams is pretty interesting especially if you are just getting into this DIY doll fashion thing.

This coat required very little in sewing. The opening for the sleeve is 3" circumference. I did have a little problem in keeping the coat from slipping off of her shoulders, so I pinched in darts at the top, just above the shoulders). I cut a tiny strip of leather and knotted it on one end to create a button which is placed at the hips on the doll's left side. (There is a closeup of this button further down under "stole.")  It is threaded through a tiny hole and tied in place. You can also use a brad but the stem has to be long enough to be left a bit loose. On the doll's right side of the coat which folds over, I cut a tiny buttonhole. In short, this coat buttons shut!

Many years ago, I was given a small reptile hide. It was stiff and too brittle to sew. The hide had two little holes where I imagine the legs must have been. It is impossible to sew with but I still wanted to use it.

I cut up a sock to make two tubes (for sleeves) which I pushed through the holes and carefully hand stitched in place.

Besides leather and skins, is there must be some other legitimate excuse for using this super simple pattern? Perhaps you have a beautiful pocket square or a gorgeous piece of lace you cannot bear to cut up!

1. I took advantage of a sale and found this piece of 6" (15cm) red lace trim. Unfortunately I did not have any smaller lace to use for the cut (side) edges.
2. So I very carefully cut around the motifs of the edges so as to preserve the curves of the original pattern.
3. Pin the pattern underneath the lace and very carefully cut out the armholes
4. So that the armholes will not stretch or fray, use a chain stitch to stitch onto the sewing line (approximately 1/8" or 3mm from the cut edge). This adds stability to the hole and provides a sewing guide for the sleeve.
5. Here's what this looks like when I'm finished.

6. Cut two tubes to fit the holes. My strips are roughly 2" wide by 3-1/2" long. Fold in half and sew (the underarm seam) then turn right side out.
7. Cut the top edge at a slight angle.
8. Slide a pencil or paintbrush into the sleeve. Poke this tube through the armhole of the coat and pin the sleeve in place on the underside, making sure the seam of the tube will fall under the arm.
9. You can remove the pencil and use your finger to hold the sleeve and armhole in place as you sew. Using a tiny back stitch, hand sew the sleeve to the coat along the stitching line you created early.

The Flat Coat

There was another coat that caught my eye at the Margiela exhibition. Hanging on the wall there was what appeared to be a flat trench coat. The problem is, there wan't anything to show the front, nor how it was worn. Still, it sparked my imagination! My first attempt--cut from cotton cloth-- was awful. Fabric jutted out from the sides and flopped down from the shoulders. The doll looked as if she got caught up in her bed linens. I'm not sure a softer fabric would have rendered better results. But after much reflection, I decided this could be transformed into a real haute couture piece by using an interesting material like.... sheer polyester organdy!

The choice of fabric came after the disaster of my first attempt. I had sewn together, two lined cotton squares thus adding to the bulk to the look. But using the polyester organdy (a.k.a. crystal polyester), I only used a single layer and flame sealed the edges. When I finished, the final result looked NOTHING like Margiela's coat on the wall!  Instead the coat I created made the doll resemble a beautiful butterfly! That's the difference between copying and being inspired!

1. To create the pattern, I started with a sheet of paper folded in half to mark the center. Lay the doll down with her arms outstretched (about 24 degree angle). Line her up so that the center of her lines up with the center of the paper.
2. Trace a line around one side of the doll from the back of her neck straight over to the length of her arm.From the CB line, measure 1-3/4" (42mm) and extend a vertical line down to the hem. From that same point draw a horizontal line out to the doll's hand.
3. Round out the perpendicular line of the underarm/side seam. Trace to the other side of the paper to make a full back pattern.
4. For the front, Trace off half the back then add a margin. Mine here is 2" but you can add more or less depending on your desired look.

5. Here's the tricky part. Your pattern is actually the outer measurements of the sheet of paper! Cut two panels for the front and one for the back.

6. The pattern which you just created for the back will be traced onto the back panel. Pin the panel onto the sheer fabric, then using tailor's chalk or a pastel pencil, trace the pattern of the coat.

7. Pin the front panels to the back along the top and side. With the back panel (which has the pattern traced onto it), sew along the pattern lines. Be careful to keep the overlay of the front panels free from the stitching.  The stitches are on the outside of the garment. I added a belt made from the same fabric. Just under the stitched sleeves at the waist, I machine stitched small squares then slit tiny openings so that I could feed the belt through (close up circle).

 Here is my finished coat back (top) and front (bottom).

It makes for a spectacular effect!

The Stole

This garment I liked a lot! A simple stole becomes a veritable garment.

 My favorite Paris shop for leather scraps (Au Gentleman des Cuirs, 4bis, rue d'Orsel, Paris 18) had some sheepskin scraps which I immediately grabbed. They are bulky. They hard to sew, but look-- in an instant, Samantha has the closest thing to a sheepskin jacket.

I used the leather side for the outside. By turning down the edges on the top and bottom to expose the fleece, you have a quick and easy fur trim. Note: when flat, the shape of this stole is curved much like those old fashioned fur stoles from the 1950's. Here again, I've made my own buttons (center photo) by taking a strip of leather and knotting one edge and threading the other end through a tiny hole which is tied on the underside. I cut in tiny buttonholes so that the garment can be closed without snaps or velcro!

The beauty of the stole is that you can use almost any fabric and customize it anyway you'd like. I decided to "tailor" it a bit--and make it more fitted to the body so that it looks like jacket from the front. This one is cut from a cotton broadcloth napkin.

This is what I call a "fitted" stole. It has a more tailored fit.
1. You decide on the length and the look. My stole here measures 2-1/2" (65mm) wide by 10-3/4" (28 cm)long which I've hemmed all around.
2. Wrap this around the doll's shoulders and pin at the waist and hem.
3. Pinch in darts over the shoulders.
4. Pinch in darts from the bust down to the bottom edge towards the back at a diagonal. Make sure the doll's arms are stretched out at an angle.
5. When you're done, it should fit like this. Add pockets, center front buttons...whatever embellishments you desire!

For Tamron, I decided to add leather pockets with tiny silver studs (brads) and black buttons (brads) down the center. You can use snaps or velcro to close this.

Oh it's gets even better. How about a "Chanel" jacket-stole!!!!

I found this "Chanel" inspired fabric at a store in Troy Michigan (Habermann Fabrics). And with minimal work, Dorian now has another designer look for her wardrobe.

The weave is quite loose and while this is good for fraying the edges, don't forget to make a machine stitch around the edges to keep the fabric from fraying beyond where you want it to end.

One last thing....
That Glove Bustier

This was, of course, way too much fun. The original top designed by Margiela was constructed by sewing actual gloves together. And yes, I took a shortcut by making a one piece strapless leather camisole first.  I had to first make the "gloves," then one by one, layer them over the camisole.

I drew a glove the same scale of the doll's hand and with tiny, manicure scissors, I cut out each glove.
Tracing the glove drawing onto leather could have been a tedious job. So I came shortcut. Place (or double stick tape) the glove to the leather then rub soft pastel over the entire glove which will result in a "shadow" once the cut-out is removed. The photo to the right shows the "shadow" which you cut out using manicure scissors. Feel free to decorate the glove by cutting in fringe or embellishing with other bits of leather or paint.

All photos and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2018. Please credit me and ask me first before reposting!!! Thank you.

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Neck & Neck

Prior to joining our crew in Milan, I wanted to pause for another tutorial on neckline treatments. For a long time, there hasn't been anything special (aside from one shouldered gowns) with necklines. Increasingly however, I'm beginning to see dresses and tops sporting a variety of necklines. What really prompted me to do this project was the sublime gown by Balmain worn on the Oscar red carpet by the iconic actress, Jane Fonda.

This dress is really super simple....a body grazing sheath with a two eye-popping details: square shoulders and a sharply cut neckline. Before we get to that dress, let's first look at how different necklines are designed into a garment.

We must go back to our basic slopers. Whatever happens in the front will impact the back in most cases.

Square Neckline.
1. Place the front and back slopers end to end at the shoulders.
2. Make a mark at the mid point of the shoulder line, another on the center front (as far down as you want) and another on the center back (as far down as you want). Make a horizontal line across the bodice from the mark on the center front and the center back Those lines should run perpendicular to those vertical lines. Draw a diagonal line to join the first two lines as shown in diagram #2.
3. The pattern will look like this.
4. Add seam allowance.

Sweetheart Neckline
5. This is pretty much the same method. It begins by placing a mark roughly 1" (2cm) down from the neck on the shoulder and another as far down the center front line as you want. Draw another line perpendicular to the shoulder as far down as you would like, and then a curved line from that point to the mark on the center front.
6. Place the back sloper end to end along the shoulder of the front sloper. Draw a horizontal line on the center back (where you made a mark). Starting where the line falls on the shoulder from the front sloper, continue that line until it intercepts with the horizontal line extending out from the center back.

Bateau neckline
It is hardly noticeable. But actually, this is a wide neckline with just the right amount of rise in the front over the throat and a graceful dip at the nape of the neck in the back.
7. Mark the mid-point on the shoulder line of both the front and back slopers. On the front sloper, make a mark that is 1/8" (3mm) above the center front point at the neck. Draw a new line
8. On the back sloper, make a mark that is 1/8" (3mm) down from the neck on the center back and draw a new line.
9. Trace off. Then add seam allowance to complete the pattern.

Finishing Touches: Fold and sew (or glue)
Now that you know how to do necklines, how do you finish them?  A full, edge to edge lining is  ideal, but not always practical. Moreover, depending on the style, not all clothes need to be lined. So you have two other options. If the lines are simple and the fabric isn't too complicated, you can simply turn the edge down and stitch or (fabric) glue down and iron. Tip: Join the garment together at the shoulders. Press, then turn and stitch or glue while the garment is flat. Then sew the sides and complete the garment.

Finishing touches: Facings
I hesitate to recommend facings because often, they add bulk around the neckline. But if you don't want to line the outfit and the design is such that you cannot simply fold and stitch (which is the case of our sweetheart along with more complex necklines), then a facing will suffice.

 1. Facings are created by tracing off the top part of the pattern while avoiding darts. In diagram one, the red dotted line indicates the part of the original pattern I will use to create the facing for this bodice. Make sure the length at the side seams are equal from front to back.
2. Here's the pattern for the facing.
3. When you have a pattern with a more involved design--like the sweetheart neckline pictured here--you should mark the design directly onto the wrong side of the fabric because you really must respect the sewing lines. Sew the facing along the shoulder line only. Sew the garment along the shoulder line only. Press the shoulder seams flat. Place right side of the facing to the right side of the garment and pin. Then carefully sew the two elements together.

4. Very carefully clip around the neckline. Turn right side out.
5. Press well, one section at a time.
6. Baste or pin along the neckline edge.
7. Make tiny cuts around the armholes of both the facing and that of the garment. Press each inwards.
8. Pin the edges of the armhole facing together with those of the garment.
9. Using a single thread (needle and thread) sew the two together. Press well.

10. Once you have finished the neckline and armhole edges, fold the garment down and stitch the sides (and back).

When you have finished, you will have a neckline that is shaped like the top of a heart over the bustline and is square in the back. This was a very popular look in the 1940's, especially coupled with puffy "leg of muffin" short sleeves! Sometimes over the years, it tends to fall out of favor. But you can modify it to serve your needs. For the gorgeous velvet dress below, designed by New York designer, Brandon Maxwell and worn by Viola Davis for this year's Golden Globes, a lot of you (and me) fell in love with the look.

Creating what appears starts out as a "slip dress" in 1/6 scale, particularly in velvet, is quite a challenge. So I made a modified version of the "sweetheart" neckline. And since stretch velvet doesn't fray, I didn't need to do anything special to finish the edges. Note: only seam allowance has been added to the shoulders and the sides. There is enough stretch in the fabric for the doll to slip into the dress without the need of a back opening. So the dress is only made of two pattern pieces!

I started with the (dartless) knit sloper. Then modified it by redrawing the neckline using the same "heart shaped" design, but with slim "straps" over the shoulders.

Behind the Design: That Balmain Dress

Okay, I know....you came here to find out how to make THAT dress......

Even though Jane Fonda's dress has a bit of a train in the back, I decided to keep the basic dress as a long sheath. If you really want, you can add a wedge of jersey (in the same color) into the center back just under the knee. But for me, the drama of this dress is really the power shoulders and the dramatic neckline.

1. This is one of those rare occasions where the design of the front doesn't impact the back. That is because the dress is close to the back of her nape in the back and drops down and wide in sharp points in the front. So, I begin with the zig zag design in the front. Be careful not to draw the zig zag too small or the design won't be too visible when you have finished.

2. The back sloper remains unchanged.

3. Because this dress has square power shoulders, you must lift and square off the original shoulder line. Line up the front and back slopers so that the shoulder points align as shown.

4. The top of the shoulders run horizontal (and perpendicular to the rest of the sloper. Extend the curve of the armhole to meet the top of the shoulder.

5. Take the redesigned front and overlap it with the back along the center lines. Note the difference in height. Raise the front and lower the back so that both slopers are equal in length at the shoulder line.

6. Redraw the pattern.

7. Line up the front and back bodice patterns along the new shoulder line. We cannot have the armhole come to a point, so make a mark about 1/8" (3mm) from the widest point on the shoulder.

8. Make a mark 1/8" away from the bottom of the armhole on both the front and back pattern. Draw a line from that point back down to the waist of the pattern. Now redraw the armhole

9. Because these are padded shoulders and we have lifted the shoulder line, we must lift the cap of the sleeve. Whatever the amount your shoulders were lifted--1/2" (1 cm) in this case, you add to the top of the sleeve. The best way to do this is by tracing off the original pattern. Then sliding the sloper 1/2 along the center line and tracing off part of the cap. Redraw to that the lines blend.

Here is my finished pattern. Unless your fabric has a lot of body, you will need to make and sew in shoulder pads. You can find them HERE.

Well, the girls are waiting for us in Milan to show us their faves from the Italians' Fashion Week. We'll see you all there in a few!!!

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