Dolls Eye View: Paris F/W 19 Trends: Part 1

Vive la France! Vive Paris! The girls landed in the fashion capital looking for something special and Paris did not disappoint. In fact, there were so many ideas, we decided to split this  report into two posts. What is so wonderful about Paris is there is something for everybody. In this Part 1, we look at the simple, more sober, mostly daytime styles in neutral tones. We'll also look at edgier, more colorful side of Paris fashion but for now, let's take a look as some dynamic looks you dolls might want next Fall.

Livin' Large

The first thing you will notice about the Paris collections is that silhouettes have fattened up. We see more width in the shoulders, A-line shapes swinging freely from marked waists as well as wide, loose trousers.a la Katherine Hepburn in the 1930's.  Maxi-length coats, swash-buckling capes, great big faux furs and overstuffed parkas are all favorite looks that will be keeping dollies warm in face of blustery, polar vortex assaults.

Keep dolly warm with a hunk of faux fur! Harking back to the 1980's, fur coats over jeans is the best way to get a casual chic look. This look can be as easy as simply taking a big rectangle of supple faux fur and wrapping it around dolly's shoulders. But for Latoya, I took the faux fur coat I made back in Milan layered it with a matching long vest on top. 

Coat of Arms

More so than any other winter season, there was a good array of coats on the Paris catwalks. Most are long, ample and wrap comfortably around the body. In fact, the wrap coat belted at the waist is the best way to go. Also look for A-line coats especially those cut in silk and worn over cocktail length dresses!

Crosswalk

In the path of glen plaids, checks, tweeds and other menswear fabric, we see oversized windowpane plaids making a comeback. Again, this is a revival of late 1970's when patterns were quite popular and worn in all-over effects. Notice this "total look" where everything matches or...positive/negative plaids are worn in the same garment.

Normally, I am not a fan of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the current designer for Christian Dior. But I saw potential in the design and thought it could be fun for doll fashion. I could not find a corresponding plaid in 1/6 scale, so I cut up an old pair of my dad's pajamas and made this oversized "bathrobe" style coat with the frayed hem for Veronica. I thought a lace skirt was prettier than the net used in the original. The added plus is that bulk along the waist created by the lace skirt forced the coat into a distinct A-line silhouette which, in my opinion, is a tad bit more interesting than the one designed by Ms. Chiuri.

Skin Flicks

Once again....leather will be in abundance next Fall. There are, of course, the usual blazers, jackets, skirts and pants, worn in monochromatic ensembles or under a crisp, plaid jacket.

However, the outfit that caught Anna's eye is this "Darth Vadar" ensemble...a flared skirt with a leather cape tossed over the shoulders. I used a faux leather-like fabric to make the skirt. But for the cape, I did use real leather because it's grain adds a richness to the overall look. If you don't have access to leather or faux leather, you can always use a heavy black satin which will provide a similar effect. The hat is not perfect because I used a synthetic felt instead of 100 percent wool. And I didn't have the time to make a proper hat form. So I improvised and was thrilled with the overall look. Looking for her gloves? Look here.

The Long & Short of It

Also recalling the 1970's mini-maxi fashions is this lineup. Today, super short and extra long hemlines co-exist on Parisian catwalks. Look for ankle length silhouettes in both basic and Japanese complex designs as well as short, curvy dresses and jackets!

Katarina has such a serine, almost anti-establishment look, I thought she would be the perfect model to pull off the androgynous look of Japanese icon, Yohji Yamamoto. There is something absolutely fascinating about his clothes. They are like little puzzles which led me to search for a way to create a simplified version suitable for a 1/6 scale doll. Katarina's dress was made from a coat pattern with an extended, triangular front. I made a slit in one side seam and stuffed one side into the hole. This is worn over a slim skirt. The ensemble is made from a lightweight sweater knit.

Oh, I couldn't stop there. Katoucha's dress is really a cardigan sweater with a scarf that was draped and stitched in place over the shoulders. I decided to keep the skirt simple instead of the multi-tiered skirt of the original to cut down on bulk.

Digital Noise

If I had tweed on hand, I would have made more than one from this group. I love the early 1960's loose jackets and dresses cut from this menswear tweed. Nonetheless, since the Barbies have been reminding me to make fashion for them, I decided on the Mugler outfit, a crisp white jacket over a scrambled printed skirt and skinny pants.

For Gloria's outfit, I used a black and white patterned fabric polyester for the slim pants and gathered mini shirt. Over it---a long, princess line jacket in stark white.

Champs Elysees

Sleek, chic with understated elegance...this a theme that is quintessentially Parisian. Black, white or a combination of both, we're talking impeccably cut classics that never go out of style. These are looks you will use over and over to dress dolly.

Simple to make, stunning to wear, this is the easiest way to wear Chanel, Stephani's top is a simple bodice with sleeves (basic sloper with added seam allowance) cut from black sequins. Her trousers are wide and straight, pleated into the waistband with pockets added in the side seams.

Basic Instinct

It all comes back to basics! Simple (not so little) black dresses with interesting neckline treatments.

If you can knit, this is a beautiful, two piece cable knit dress to make. But if you can't (like me), make it from a sock.

The body of Nadja's dress is a tube that I've cut from a single sock. I've added spaghetti straps (made from embroidery yarn). Over it: a micro-sweater or "shrug"--a small strip of knit with sleeves at each end that rides over the bustline. 

Day to Night

Black and white--a theme normally reserved for springtime, has popped up for winter wear. This theme is a culmination of other major looks of the season: the wider trousers, A-line silhouettes, and structured styles--all sketched out in a contrast of graphic black and white.

Hey, we're just getting started. There's more to come and it's in.....living color!!! Stay tuned for Paris F/W'19 Trends: Part 2!!!

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist

Like us on Facebook: @FashDollStylist

We're also on Pinterest: @FashDollStylist

And of course, we are on Instagram: @fashiondollstylist

Read More

Doll's Eye View: Paris Haute Couture Fall 2017

Literally translated, the word "couture" means dressmaking. Any made-to-order dress or gown is couture, but not all couture is "Haute Couture".....an exceptionally high level of dressmaking. It isn't just about fancy gowns or hefty price tags, this is a completely different type of garment from that which is produced for mass distribution.  And as with other forms of fashion, lifestyles impact what  couturiers produce for their clientele. As women have become more active, Haute Couture has become more simple.

Since its inception in 1865, Haute Couture is the product the super wealthy turns to for wardrobe choices. Couture fabrics are like fine works of art produced in small quantities by private, family owned mills. Master crafters are also employed hand embroider, apply beads or feathers onto the final garment while others produce coordinated shoes, hats and jewelry. But often, the women who could afford clothes costing upwards of $15,000 for a daywear dress to over $250,000 for a hand embroidered evening gown, had plenty of time for tending to their wardrobe and  attending  fittings. But times are a-changing.

Most women in affluent socio-economic communities now hold down full time jobs, or run their own companies. Such fast paced lifestyles means less time for the frivolity of "ladies who lunch." The stigma of wearing off the rack designer wear has dissipated. Most young women have no idea of the work and artistry that goes into a couture gown, nor do they care. Today, it's all about....the look and labels! As a result, there are very few "ambassadors" of the real Haute Couture. So there is no real reason for these clothes to exist. But Paris being Paris...the industry won't let HCdie. Instead, twice yearly,  it invites new designers to present their wares at an event once reserved for a handful of iconic couturiers. Today, designers come from all corners of the globe to celebrate Paris Couture Week. Some, like Italian born, Armani and Giambattista Valli, British duo Ralph & Russo, Lebanese Zuhair Murad, Georges Hobeika, and Elie Saab are now doing Haute Couture better than the French! But many of younger designers invited as guests during couture week, seem not to completely grasp the concept of couture. Much of what we saw was, well...ready to wear. And sadly, this season, many of our favorite labels showed either dreary grey frocks or predictable, almost stereotypical ball gowns. As a result, this season, my girls settled on only a few looks from the Haute Couture Fall/Winter 17 collections.

Star That You Are..

These are simple silhouettes zapped with the twinkle of delicate beadwork. They are dresses that may very well end up on red carpet events this fall! But even with all of the sparkle, my girls found ways to jazz up the looks a bit!

This is a dress made from a tube of stretch, semi-matte black sequins. I removed a bit of embroidery from a piece of vintage, beaded, black lace and tacked it onto the top for the "bra" top. I also added a bit more of this embroidery to the hemline, then added a few iridescent black beads  to the bra and to the hem. The rest of that trim is used as a shawl that Grace chose to toss over her shoulders.

I really don't really understand the Haute Couture connection with this wrap dress. And I doubt the woman who buys this will wear it without underwear. But it was simple to make and, after all, my girls love to shine! Instead of rhinestone studded sheer fabric, I chose a glitter tulle for both Nichelle's dress and shawl. Where the dress crisscrosses over the body, I added rhinestone stickers.

Christian Values

 

This summer, the Musee des Arts Decoratifs pays tribute to the legacy of Christian Dior with a tremendous exhibition. (We will dedicate a post on that exhibition in the near future.) A few couturiers also paid homage, with silhouettes reminiscent of the namesake's signature look: the "trapeze." This classic dress has a fitted bodice with full, flared skirt. This is a very pretty silhouette that lends itself to princess Barbie wear!

There were lots of ou's and ahs over this Grecian dress. Though it looks more summer than winter, my girls loved the softness of this look. The dress starts with a strapless fitted bodice with a drape of sheer fabric attached to a full, gathered skirt.

One Off

 Again, emphasis is on the shoulders, with one-shouldered dresses taking center stage.

We loved Ralph & Russo, finding it to be one of the few collections that had the mark of authentic Haute couture. That baby blue dress caught everybody's eye and is just the kind of challenge I was looking for. But it did make me cry. Making this dress meant getting out the muslin and draping it directly on the doll. And though I made another toile from the original drape, the bad surprise came when I transferred everything to fabric. The top came out better than I expected, but there is a major flaw in the skirt. I cut it on the bias thinking the skirt would fit better. Instead, the edges stretched as I ironed it which is why it is curling around the legs. When I have a bit of time, I'd like to try this again, cutting the skirt on the straight grain!!!

Glamour Girls

Me and the girls love old fashioned, 1930's silver screen fashion. We love the feathers, the fur touches, the glitz and the drama. But if you look closely, beyond the flash and dash of the glamour, you'll see that not everything here is HC.. Still, this was something my girls felt they could work work with.

For an Haute Couture catwalk show, we believe you should go big or go home, especially when it comes to accessories. After all, these are clothes for a queen! While Meagan loves white satin and white fur, she felt the original dress was a bit too.....ready to wear. It could at least have a little beading. In this case, we simply made a bodice using some pearl medallions (found in the wedding department of our favorite fabric store). Her coat is simply a cheap rabbit fur scarf we found last winter..

The original dress has the look Nadja was going for, but she felt Haute Couture, even in a modern context, is more than a leather corset and pleated trousers. We kept the (faux) fur neck muff, the leather corset and matching opera length gloves, but gave her a taffeta wrap skirt instead and added ropes of rhinestones.

Shine On

Silk satin sculpted into a fishtail gown, velvet with shiny edges generously poured over the body in a tent-like silhouette or a super simple evening length shift with gilded edges.....now is the time to shimmer and shine!

But why look good when you can look great! It is, after all Haute Couture. You can start out with something simple, but when you finish, the look should be....grandiose! Stephani looks sensational in her Ralph & Russo but she didn't stop there. She borrowed the crystal polyester coat we did in an early post..."Flaky Pastry."

Text and doll photos are property of Fashion Doll Stylist (and should be credited as such) 2017. Please do not reproduce without prior permission. Thank you.

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist
Like us on Facebook: @FashDollStylist
We're also on Pinterest: @FashDollStylist
Come join us on Instagram and show off your stuff: instagram.com/fashiondollstylist

Read More

Ken's Eye View: Summer 17 Menswear Trends

The guys are back, this time with the best of Summer 2017 fashions! Traditionally, summer collections are not news making styles. It's a time for chilling out and enjoying the beautiful weather in style. After eyeing the catwalks of New York, London, Milan and Paris, the dude dolls in my house have all agreed the way to go is with super cool fashions cut in easy to wear silhouettes cut from soft cottons in white, neutrals and sometimes fruity tones.

Easy Does It!

 

Summer time when the livin' is easy....shapes are loose and large. Think drawstring pants, oversized tunic shirts and Tshirts that float loosely over the abs. Many of the looks on this page can be made using the basic pattern tutorials for the Ken dolls. You only need to lengthen the patterns for the oversized shirts or widen the pattern (and ignore any darts) for the wide pants.

 

Sport coat, slacks with a tie dye oversized tunic peaking out....this is an exotic look with a Middle Eastern flair that our guys simply love. The tie dye aspect of these shirts adds a bold graphic statement to Renauld's ensemble.

 

New Boys on the Block

Bold and big, this is the 2017 version of color blocking. Shirts and jackets are super wide with stark, contrasting accents. This is done by changing up the color of the sleeves or pants, or with the addition of a supersized pockets or blocks of photo images.

 

Country Gentleman

The same idea of loose, easy clothes is carried over to more formal daywear. Sport jackets are cut from textured cottons and linens in styles ranging from the classic blazer through safari jackets. Colors are faithful to sun bleached tones of chalk, clay, white washed pastels, light grey.

 

Mr. Clean

Once again, this is a story of easy fashions cut from the same neutral palette. In this theme, note the appearance of the jumpsuit, the oversized shirt with cargo pockets and the trench coat tossed over the shoulders of a white Tshirt and trousers.

 

Short Stop

As to be expected with summer fashions, shorts... particularly those worn with jackets, are big! Here, the guys show off the best way to wear shorts from daytime safari looks to regal nighttime styles.

Our guy, Marcus wears the total (Moncler Gamme Bleu) package: safari jacket, white shirt and shorts with lots of pockets, worn with knee socks and beige shoes.

 

Suits Me!

There are classic suits, by the way. But look at how they break tradition in terms of choice of color. Whether single breasted or double breasted, think of using soft colors for your Ken doll's summer wardrobe. You could also be rock star daring and use a brocade fabric for the whole( a la Editions MR)  suit OR...add a black ruffled shirt to a charcoal black suit for a glammed up guy look a la Versace.

 

Desert Storm

Military is on everybody's mind! Look for styles inspired by army/navy gear. Rugged fabrics in khaki, camouflage, battleship green and slate grey are key colors for clothes with a lot of structure and detail: patch or cargo pockets, snaps and straps.

 

Serigraffiti

From the battlefields to the mean streets of urban jungles, overcoats, shirts, and sometimes denim jeans are spattered with "stencil graffiti" motifs. Again, this is a story about great big silhouettes and even bigger, bolder patterns literally painted onto the face of the garment.

 

Fresh Prints of BelAir...

Speaking of prints... They're not just reserved for Barbie fashion, you know. Our guys have picked up on the trend in all of its aspects. You can use kitschy florals or vintage prints for shirts and even shorts, subtle patterns in soft cotton for elegant suits or go all out with graffiti scrawled over jackets, shorts and shorts. The patterns are kept simple. The overall effect is large!

 

Dudes in Denim

Not your grandfather's jeans.....these show how far designers have taken the iconic garment. In the version by Christopher Shannon, the classic jeans jacket and pants are fringed using belt loops! The message here is...get creative with your blues! We probably couldn't duplicate Shannon's styles for the doll, but we could substitute rough cut slices denim for the belt loops! Otherwise....my guys denim with subtle patterns like those used in jackets and loose trousers OR the other extreme....super long jeans crushed around the ankles with lots of straps!

 

Tribal Vibes

With far away cultures the center of world events, it's no wonder we are seeing ethnic patterns and prints used in menswear. My dude dolls really loved the look of ikat prints worn with basic navy blazers, animal prints for hipster jackets or exotic geometrics etched over classy daywear gear.

For awhile now, prints, normally reserved for women's wear, has been adopted into menswear. But as styles have relaxed, the use of these prints has grown into a popular way to jazz up the look.

In the meantime, rock star mania continues its influence on men's fashions. Zak liked the idea of a waist length zebra printed jacket over slim pants. But instead of adhering to the original Louis Vuitton garment, we chose a simpler pattern and polished cotton instead of the leather version. Zak's "Nike" (which I found on eBay) perfectly compliments this look.

 

Summer in the City

White and neutrals aren't the only choices you have when choosing fabric for your favorite vinyl guy. There is also a tangy palette of fruit kissed tones to choose from. Keep the individual elements simple. But go as creative as your doll will let you when it comes to fabric and color!

Here, Richard wears a basic blazer (the tutorial for this is HERE) and trousers cut from apricot raw silk. The jacket and pants were made using the tutorials we did early on. To that classic pant suit, we added a shirt (that we lengthened by one inch (2.5 cm) then cut from batik dyed silk. This is the coolest way to look this summer.

 

If you only have the time to make one garment for Ken....let it be an oversized shirt!!!!

Richard (left) wears a classic shirt that was lengthened, whereas his friend Renauld (right), wears a tie dye shirt with no collar that is buttoned down the back. I used the same shirt pattern (which you can find by clicking HERE) but laid it out so that the front center line was on the fold. And I added seam allowance to the center back seam.

 

 

Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist
Like us on Facebook: @FashDollStylist
We're also on Pinterest: @FashDollStylist
Come join us on Instagram and show off your stuff: instagram.com/fashiondollstylist



Read More