Dolls Eye View: Paris F/W '19 Trends: Part II

Strap on those seat belts, me and the girls have gone a little bit off the beaten path!!! Paris is not only about about beauty and the woman, it's also about creative experimentation.

Gender Bender

In the 1960's it was called "Unisex," a single look worn by men and women alike. By the 1980's when Japanese designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakuba arrived on scene, the same man/woman concept was translated into a more exotic, "cerebral" look and tagged "androgynous." Fast forward to today...we're in a "fluid" wave where men and women swap styles depending on the moment and the mood. Look for silhouettes that have the structure of a man's suit jacket mixed with the fluid lines of a dress. What's interesting here is that you can make a few changes that can adapt to both the girls and the dude dolls!

For example, take a look at this Alexander McQueen suit. We see both the masculine and feminine elements in the same garment. On the left is Zoe in her version of this suit. On the left is Kim. We kept most of the main features but took a few liberties with the collar the taffeta drape on the front. Kim's suit can be worn with or without a shirt.

Aliens Amongst Us

This is not the wildest of the catwalk circus. Just a few things that actually work when you remove most of the hi-jinks!!! The proportions are a little bit off, layering is quirky and the mix of fabrics and patterns, a wee bit....bohemian. Think of it as "Fun with Fashion that break all rules. But before you close the door on this....here's a hint: change the proportions and the accessories for some really nice (and wearable) clothes!

Essentially Natasha is wearing a traditional evening dress with an asymmetrical hemline showing off a flash of thigh. (I made this quickly by crushing a bit of taffeta and tacking in place.) What sets this look into the new millennium is her metallic tights and, in Natasha's case, her aluminum foil head gear! Take away all the tinsel....you got a classic red carpet gown!

Panting for More

In the last report, I said that you will need to make at least a new jacket for your doll to keep her in style for next Fall. Add a pair of trousers to that list as well! Pants come in all sizes and shapes. The skinnies are still around, but you should set your sights to wider trousers and even perhaps...a pair of bell bottoms. One thing to note: from top to bottom, it's a total (polished) look.

Royal Flush

This is a color story. Peaking out from all of the greys, blacks and assorted neutrals is a pop of color, from time to time. In Paris we noticed quite a few looks drenched in royal blue! You have a wide range of fabrics--from knits to velvet and silk!

Carmelia couldn't resist this pantsuit. We made it out of jersey. A flutter of bias cut ruffles flutters around and down her one shouldered top which is belted over a pair of straight cut pants. Though you could make this as a jumpsuit, I decided it would be easier and faster to make it in two pieces (top plus pants with belt). The flounces on Camelia's version, by the way, were created by cutting circles which are slashed, stretched then applied to the shoulder line.

Autumn Leaves

There's another color palette in store for next fall. Its inspiration comes from nature itself. Think autumn leaves after the first frost when the trees are ablaze in rich colors of the season. These warm and inviting tones are absorbed all day long straight into evening wear. 

Animal Instincts

Animal prints are the new neutrals so each season we are likely so see clothes with fabric inspired by our feline friends. And there are many ways to wear these ferocious patterns and prints. When fabric shopping, look for metallics embossed with scales, abstract versions of spotted cats. Whether slightly over sized or right on the mark, there is no wrong way to wear them!

For Jourdan we made a micro-mini wrap dress worn and tossed a tuxedo blazer over her shoulders. Her thigh high boots give her a touch of bad girl glam.

Don't be limited to using only one print per garment. Feel free to mix and match and put together unexpected combinations of patterns. Here, Chrystele has fun with a lace trimmed leopard printed poncho tossed over the shoulders of a glitzy sheath dress.

Because we don't see the actual dress underneath the poncho, I took the liberty to make my own design. Since I liked the idea of something bling-bling that would contrast the spotted poncho, I chose a width of 4-inch (10cm) trim which I use on the wrong side! Here's a closeup of the bronze/blue dress Chrystele is wearing underneath. The necklace and the embroidered Barbie boots give it a luxurious tropical vibe.

She's on Her "A-Game"

Fit and flare...a throwback to the 1950's and early 60's silhouettes, is welcomed back this year. This time around you'll find this classic look cut from all sorts of materials from leather and wool to silk.

Here's another Dior. This time it's a dress that takes its que from an old fashioned school girl. Margot's dress is really in three parts. The "sweater" is a funnel neck top cut from a thin 2-way stretch knit. The dress itself is really in two parts--a corset top and a full, gathered skirt belted over everything. Most wools are too thick for this silhouette. So here, I used silk which has the look of herringbone but falls more fluid over Margot's body!  

Goddess

Tall, statuesque, this is the simplest way to go for the glam in a season where everything is pared down to the essentials.
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Ruffled!

Of course, there are exceptions. Take these girly-girl ruffled dresses, for example. Like a whipped creamed filled creme puff it floats over dolly's body like a cloud. We do, however, like the idea of pairing ruffles with more sober silhouettes that allow a whisper of delicious curves drift beyond its borders. 

The girls went in search for Toni Maticevski who normally shows during Paris Fashion Week. We didn't see him on Vogue's roundup, so we headed to his website to see what he had been up to. I don't know if he has dropped out of the "fashion week rat race" to do his own thing. But we did find lots of new things to love including this dress. For Sybille's dress we used a fine grade of wedding tulle, cut into irregular squares which are attached to a strapless sheath foundation. As you can see...Sybille's dress is more "perky." We thought of dipping the dress in hot water to calm things down, but then decided to leave the dress in its fairy-tale like dimensions.

In Memory of Mr. Karl Lagerfeld

The Fall/Winter 2019 Chanel collection is the last creative endeavor of this industry icon. We don't know what the future brings for Chanel without Karl Lagerfeld's watchful eye, but we are thankful for the 35 wonderful years of incredible fashion he brought to the catwalk. Dorian, my FR model who normally gets first pick of our Dolly Chanel creations, insisted I make one more garment from this season which is pictured above.

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Dolls Eye View: Paris F/W 19 Trends: Part 1

Vive la France! Vive Paris! The girls landed in the fashion capital looking for something special and Paris did not disappoint. In fact, there were so many ideas, we decided to split this  report into two posts. What is so wonderful about Paris is there is something for everybody. In this Part 1, we look at the simple, more sober, mostly daytime styles in neutral tones. We'll also look at edgier, more colorful side of Paris fashion but for now, let's take a look as some dynamic looks you dolls might want next Fall.

Livin' Large

The first thing you will notice about the Paris collections is that silhouettes have fattened up. We see more width in the shoulders, A-line shapes swinging freely from marked waists as well as wide, loose trousers.a la Katherine Hepburn in the 1930's.  Maxi-length coats, swash-buckling capes, great big faux furs and overstuffed parkas are all favorite looks that will be keeping dollies warm in face of blustery, polar vortex assaults.

Keep dolly warm with a hunk of faux fur! Harking back to the 1980's, fur coats over jeans is the best way to get a casual chic look. This look can be as easy as simply taking a big rectangle of supple faux fur and wrapping it around dolly's shoulders. But for Latoya, I took the faux fur coat I made back in Milan layered it with a matching long vest on top. 

Coat of Arms

More so than any other winter season, there was a good array of coats on the Paris catwalks. Most are long, ample and wrap comfortably around the body. In fact, the wrap coat belted at the waist is the best way to go. Also look for A-line coats especially those cut in silk and worn over cocktail length dresses!

Crosswalk

In the path of glen plaids, checks, tweeds and other menswear fabric, we see oversized windowpane plaids making a comeback. Again, this is a revival of late 1970's when patterns were quite popular and worn in all-over effects. Notice this "total look" where everything matches or...positive/negative plaids are worn in the same garment.

Normally, I am not a fan of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the current designer for Christian Dior. But I saw potential in the design and thought it could be fun for doll fashion. I could not find a corresponding plaid in 1/6 scale, so I cut up an old pair of my dad's pajamas and made this oversized "bathrobe" style coat with the frayed hem for Veronica. I thought a lace skirt was prettier than the net used in the original. The added plus is that bulk along the waist created by the lace skirt forced the coat into a distinct A-line silhouette which, in my opinion, is a tad bit more interesting than the one designed by Ms. Chiuri.

Skin Flicks

Once again....leather will be in abundance next Fall. There are, of course, the usual blazers, jackets, skirts and pants, worn in monochromatic ensembles or under a crisp, plaid jacket.

However, the outfit that caught Anna's eye is this "Darth Vadar" ensemble...a flared skirt with a leather cape tossed over the shoulders. I used a faux leather-like fabric to make the skirt. But for the cape, I did use real leather because it's grain adds a richness to the overall look. If you don't have access to leather or faux leather, you can always use a heavy black satin which will provide a similar effect. The hat is not perfect because I used a synthetic felt instead of 100 percent wool. And I didn't have the time to make a proper hat form. So I improvised and was thrilled with the overall look. Looking for her gloves? Look here.

The Long & Short of It

Also recalling the 1970's mini-maxi fashions is this lineup. Today, super short and extra long hemlines co-exist on Parisian catwalks. Look for ankle length silhouettes in both basic and Japanese complex designs as well as short, curvy dresses and jackets!

Katarina has such a serine, almost anti-establishment look, I thought she would be the perfect model to pull off the androgynous look of Japanese icon, Yohji Yamamoto. There is something absolutely fascinating about his clothes. They are like little puzzles which led me to search for a way to create a simplified version suitable for a 1/6 scale doll. Katarina's dress was made from a coat pattern with an extended, triangular front. I made a slit in one side seam and stuffed one side into the hole. This is worn over a slim skirt. The ensemble is made from a lightweight sweater knit.

Oh, I couldn't stop there. Katoucha's dress is really a cardigan sweater with a scarf that was draped and stitched in place over the shoulders. I decided to keep the skirt simple instead of the multi-tiered skirt of the original to cut down on bulk.

Digital Noise

If I had tweed on hand, I would have made more than one from this group. I love the early 1960's loose jackets and dresses cut from this menswear tweed. Nonetheless, since the Barbies have been reminding me to make fashion for them, I decided on the Mugler outfit, a crisp white jacket over a scrambled printed skirt and skinny pants.

For Gloria's outfit, I used a black and white patterned fabric polyester for the slim pants and gathered mini shirt. Over it---a long, princess line jacket in stark white.

Champs Elysees

Sleek, chic with understated elegance...this a theme that is quintessentially Parisian. Black, white or a combination of both, we're talking impeccably cut classics that never go out of style. These are looks you will use over and over to dress dolly.

Simple to make, stunning to wear, this is the easiest way to wear Chanel, Stephani's top is a simple bodice with sleeves (basic sloper with added seam allowance) cut from black sequins. Her trousers are wide and straight, pleated into the waistband with pockets added in the side seams.

Basic Instinct

It all comes back to basics! Simple (not so little) black dresses with interesting neckline treatments.

If you can knit, this is a beautiful, two piece cable knit dress to make. But if you can't (like me), make it from a sock.

The body of Nadja's dress is a tube that I've cut from a single sock. I've added spaghetti straps (made from embroidery yarn). Over it: a micro-sweater or "shrug"--a small strip of knit with sleeves at each end that rides over the bustline. 

Day to Night

Black and white--a theme normally reserved for springtime, has popped up for winter wear. This theme is a culmination of other major looks of the season: the wider trousers, A-line silhouettes, and structured styles--all sketched out in a contrast of graphic black and white.

Hey, we're just getting started. There's more to come and it's in.....living color!!! Stay tuned for Paris F/W'19 Trends: Part 2!!!

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Dolls Eye View: Paris Spring Summer ‘19 Trends

The girls were happy to get back to Paris, where, frankly, there’s a little something for everyone!

Biker Babes

Biker shorts are back with a bang! (Were they ever out of style?) What's new this time around is pairing them with a tailored jacket.

To better conform to the original jacket, I could have used a flat textured wool. But having just found some very chunky (and hard to sew) "Chanel" type fabric, Anna insisted I make her 1/6 scale version out of my latest find. The jacket itself really isn't anything special. It's really all about the look--big Chanel jacket with the stretchy bike shorts.

Basic Instinct

The little black dress. The little white dress.... Getting dolly dressed for summer is as easy as making her a basic sheath. What makes these special are the tiny little details--a hint of lace peeking out from under a hem, peek-a-boo shoulders or a bias trim to an asymmetrical skirt.

Cool Shoulders

A trend that has been quite popular over the last few seasons, rocks on with all types of garments from easy, breezy caftans to an amazing strapless pantsuit frothing with an overabundance of ruffles! But the girls' eyes went directly to the caftans. What other garment do you get jewelry built into the dress!

We could not resist the challenge of making this caftan with the dropped shoulders. Unfortunately I had some time constraints and took many shortcuts to produce this version for Sophiya (aka Modernist Eugenia), the newest model to arrive in the house. I liked the idea of jewelry incorporated into the dress (or is it the other way around). And since I didn't have time to make (and embroider) a separate collar, I decided to bead the collar of the dress then attach pieces of old earrings I found in my own jewelry box. What is lovely about this look is that, depending on the time of day and the occasion, this dress can be cut in cotton for late day or silk for evening wear. In any case, this look deserves to be further explored in a future post!

Elements of the Earth

This is clearly a surface treatments project. A photo print of an earthly landmark---Sahara Dessert, the Grand Canyon, perhaps--is cut up by the princess seams of a top or skirt and teamed with a neutral accessory. Our eyes also zeroed in on the "waterfall" top and dress that appears to have been constructed with layers of cellophane fringe.

Me and the girls were rather intrigued by what appears to be cellophane dresses and tops in this collection. Kimora’s outfit is, technically, a paper dress. I located a roll of lightweight acetate (transparent film florists use to wrap bouquets of flowers). The base shift dress along with the rows of fringe are all cellophane held together with tape! (You cannot hand sew cellophane because it tears easily, as I discovered.) I’m going to work on this a little more to find a way to make this dress more “permanent.” In the meantime, Kimora is having a really good time!

Organic

With all of its twists and turns, this story is once again, all about surface treatments...this time around a nod to strange and exotic foliage. A throwback to the 1980's Issey Miyake "Pleats Please" collection, there is lots of creative draping, permanent pleating and at times....old fashioned bows!

A while back, we did a dolly textile post, "Twist and Shout," a surface treatment imitating permanent pleating ushered in the early 1990's by designer, Issey Miyake. So for me, (even though the namesake designer is no longer designing for his company) it is really nice to see this very organic look back into the spotlight. This is a cotton plaid that I wet and twisted. When dried, I draped it around Nichelle's body in similar fashion to the original garment. Then I pinched it in certain areas, stitched those "bunches" down and ironed those areas as flat as possible. I left out the straps which, for me, added nothing to the design. The result came out even better than I anticipated.

In Contrast

Black and white...this is a favorite reoccurring theme for spring and summer collections. What we loved best about this time around is how bold the graphic look is achieved through color blocking or Chinese calligraphy style prints.

My girls first spotted this dress, by Alexandre Vauthier during the Haute Couture collections. I never had time to make it, so they were delighted to see the designer make a very similar version for his ready to wear line. Again, we were taken in by the big sweep of black and white in this garment. This version features little shorts. But the girls preferred the couture version where the base was a dress. The two-tiered train of the dress goes from center front to center back.

Her "A" Game

Glamour as simple as a 1950's inspired prom dress! The classic A-line dress is part of a gorgeous lineup of evening wear cut in lace, satin or chiffon. The easiest way to get the look...is with our basic dress patterns made in two parts where the fitted bodice is joined with an A-line skirt.

Arsenic & New Lace

Speaking of lace.... a new take on an old fabric....we love the look of heavy "crochet" laces that drip over the body. Also..what could be sexier than dresses where the body peaks through sumptuously artisanal lace. And finally...a simple cotton lace dress made from three different laces gets all glammed up for the hottest of summer days.

I have a thing for these 3-D laces...This one employs the art of ribbon embroidery. Admittedly I did not have much time as I would have liked. But with a little bit of 3mm ribbon, a few silk flowers and a few lace medallions, I was able to create a similar effect over a tulle sheath dress. Very simple. Very sexy.

Glamour Girl

And finally....what would a summer ball be without a statement dress! It can be as big (like Russian born Valentin Yudashkin or the French house Talbot Runhof) or as subtle as the dresses put out by Rochas and Maticevski. What they all have in common...approachable glamour with a hint of  high drama!

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