Thứ Hai, 13 tháng 3, 2017

Doll's Eye View: London Fall/Winter 2017 Trends

Fashion is the reflection of our society. In these days of global uncertainty, designers are all over the place with the clothes they send down the catwalk. In the aftermath of Brexit, young, British designers are concerned about their country's withdrawal from the European Union with all of the associated business and financial ramifications. As a result, the girls saw a wilder then usual array of expressions. Some designers took the safe route...opting for "money in the bank," tried and true "everyday" urban looks, while others escaped into pure fantasy...a way of sticking their heads in the creative sands as they await a new, international order. For our purposes, there wasn't a lot that interested the girls, but what they did like, were real, little treasures.

Buck Shot
It was unanimous. We all love this group for its modernity. Simple shapes, easy to wear garments shot with metallic bits suggesting a high tech connection! Of course my girls love things that shine, but these items--with slivers of silver or gold, placed on neutral tone backgrounds--suggest they can be worn for day as well as night.
For Latetia's version of David Koma's dress, the look begins with a simple jersey dress. I loved the trim of the original dress but knew I would never find anything close to what looks like rows of bullet belts. So I used staples! I took strips of black jersey and literally began to staple! The bands are then tacked to the dress. Around the armholes, I used metal mesh (found in craft stores). I cut a little bit and bent it over a black scrap of fabric. These are also tacked to the dress. The rayon jersey fits perfectly over the Latetia's body and the silvery trim transforms a basic dress into edgy edge!

Bond Street Girls

The focus is on women in the workplace with an emphasis on getting more females into the top positions of financial and tech companies. This group is about status clothes. Subtle in nature, these classics are prime for an easy, power look. Note: coats are now sporting wider, "power" shoulders!

Kong
Did someone say POWER? Maybe, dolly is a beast!!! Between the shaggy coat and the quilted leather dress trimmed in fur, this group borrows the best features from the iconic gorilla. Think long-hair faux fur or black leatherette. Again, shoulders are big, either by design or with the addition of a fur collar!
Getting Megan's look is as simple as tossing a shaggy faux fur stole over the shoulders of a black gown!

Frills & Thrills
We've been noticing the return of ruffles and other girlie touches like lace decals or the generous silhouette of a big, belted coat or a bouncy, cha-cha blouse, completely overrun with giant ruffles.
This is a very different look for my dolls. But after conferring with them, the girls settled on what looks like a silky coatdress. For Marpessa's version, I began with the basic shirt pattern which I cut V-shape into a point in the front and back, before adding a big ruffle on either side. The result makes for a very pretty coat dress which  I intend to use as a coat thrown over the shoulders of a dress or as a dress worn over tights or skinny jeans.

Winter Garden
This is essentially a color story. One taken from the end of winter when colors are reduced to darks and foggy neutrals. These are easy to wear, simple shapes. What is particularly lovely is the use of tapestry prints with muted florals. We like how these "precocious" flower prints is paired with the softness of a beige sweater.

Hidden Figures
Who are we and where are we ultimately going? Until we figure this out, we settle behind a curtain of black, waiting for the ominous clouds from the current political mess to pass. This are big, black shapes that hide the wearer's body underneath with a splash. Graphic in nature, this is another way to make a grand statement! Worth noting: maxi length hemlines even for day!

And so, you ask, what happened to color?

Piccadilly Circus
It's here. It's crazy. Not exactly in the tones I personally like for winter. But in difficult times, why not look on the bright side of things with what looks like an urbanite's version of Carnival! This group came after the fact. It is typical for what happened color-wise during fashion month as a whole. We are suffering climate change everywhere. Some politicians pretend it really doesn't matter. Let's stop and take a bit of time to laugh and have a bit of fun!


Coming up next...the girls show off their faves from Milan.

Note: usually fashion month begins with New York, then London, Milan and Paris. So many things came together this year, so exceptionally, the girls decided to present their reports in the following order: London, Milan, Paris, NY.


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