Fancy Feet: Couture Footwear

With the Paris Couture Week having just wrapped up, I thought this would be the perfect time to make some fancy footwear for the girls. Underneath those fancy gowns, made-to-order power suits and luxurious fur coats exists some very fancy footwear in the world of Haute Couture. Not your ordinary off-the rack-stilettos, women fortunate enough to afford such expensive garb, will indulge in this most special footwear every bit as precious as Haute Couture itself.

Since my posts on Spats and Stocking Shoes, friends and followers have encouraged me to take that last step and  make "real" doll shoes. What has stopped me has been the difficulty in making suitable and symmetrical high heeled soles. I have even been all over the internet trying to find a source that sells those delicious FR soles to no avail. Recently, however, I received a tip suggesting I might try building shoes on top of existing soles....those cut from bottom of Barbie shoes! What a great idea! Full disclosure!  My shoes are not bad, but I still have a ways to go before they're as good as those created by the author of Fashion Doll Shoes! Nonetheless, I have approached this project in two stages: customization of the original structure and my own designed shoe with Barbie soles.

Get Inspired!

Forget about making ordinary pumps. If you're going to make your own doll shoes, they should be something special. But you'll need ideas and for that, Pinterest is a great source!

Getting to First Base

I have lots of different dolls with a wide variety of feet sizes. So when I went shopping for inexpensive generic shoes, I chose high heeled sandals that accommodate a variety of different foot shapes as shown in the above photos. (You can find these easily on eBay.) By clipping the ankle strap in the back of this shoe, most of my dolls can slip their feet inside. I was also able to cut away the ankle strap to create mules. Since this is a Barbie product, quite naturally, most Barbies fit this shoe perfectly. But I discovered, many of Integrity Toy's Fashion Royalty dolls also fit this shoe, although their feet are a bit long. This is okay because you can create uppers that disguise this. Still, whether you use this shoe, or something else, be sure to select a shoe with straps, so that you can cleanly clip them away.

Make It Your Own
I love what looks like chiffon covered shoes that tie around the ankles. For this shoe, I cut off the ankle straps to create mules. I took a long strip of sheer fabric about 1/2" (1cm) and folded it in half. With this, strip I simply threaded it through the shoe straps, wrapped it around the doll's ankles twice and tied it into a soft bow.

 You could use ribbon for a more simple look. It's simple, cheap and super easy.

Here, I selected a slightly different shoe. The ribbon is looped around the center strap, then again, wound around the leg, gladiator style.

I also love the shoe covered in flowers.

The concept behind this shoe is to make lots of tiny bows that give the illusion of tiny flowers.

I used the same organza used for my Christmas Centerpiece dress. Cut lots of small strips. Then one by one, tie them onto the straps of the shoe. As you add more ties, push them together to the side of the shoe. You can cut away the excess depending on the look your going for. Then press them down

Ok, it's time to make a real pair of footwear! To be perfectly honest, if you have made a pair of Spats (one of my most popular pins on Pinterest) you're practically there! The construction of shoe or boot uppers is the same, except that we will need to add more allowance under the top of the foot and we will need to make innersoles.

Sole Food

There are lots of doll shoe tutorials on the internet. What makes this one slightly different is that we are starting with a predesigned sole as opposed to designing something totally from scratch. So instead of conforming to the doll's foot, the insole must be traced off the shoe sole. Note: If you use only the dimension of the doll's foot without taking the shoe into consideration, there will be a gap between the finished shoe upper and the top of the sole. I've already made this mistake!)
Trace on a small piece of thin cardboard or thick paper. Fold this form where the foot bends at the toe bed and then at the top of the heel.

Normally, you would need to make a second set of insoles, however....I had problems with the plastic material used in the doll shoe soles which seems to resist rubber cement. Instead, I covered the soles with paper tape which resolved the problem.

The pattern for the footwear--a boot in this case--starts exactly in the same manner as that for the spats. If you are using a material that stretches--like knits, jersey or even leather--you can make your upper in one piece by stretching over the leg and forming a single seam down the back. Drape the fabric over the leg and pin. Mark the back seam and around the foot. Transfer to paper. Adjust so that both sides are symmetrical, then add seam allowance.



But if you are using a non-stretch material and you want a narrow boot that conforms to the curve of the leg, your boot will need seams in both the front and back.

My leopard patterned boots were cut from a vinyl square found at a local crafts store. It has a seam down the front and back. However since there is no zipper in the back, be sure to leave a tiny bit of extra space around the ankles so the doll's foot can get in and out. The pattern uses the latter pattern technique featured just above.

1. Originally I machine stitched the boot upper. However I couldn't turn it inside out. So, I stitched the boot just around the ankles for stability. I turn the boots right side out.
2. Then glued the rest of the back seam together using rubber cement.
3. Put a small piece of tape on the bottom of the foot to hold the inseam in place. Put the boot upper on the doll. Cut notches in the seams around the foot.
Apply rubber cement on the insole and then around the inside seam of the boot around the foot. Keep the two glued pieces separate until each one has dried and it slightly tacky.
4. Then fold the notched edge over the insole. Remove this from the doll. Apply rubber cement on the top of the sole. Apply rubber cement on the bottom of the upper.
5. When both are nearly dry, very carefully match the upper with the sole and press in place firmly. I painted the soles and heels brown.

This is the a very basic boot which can be embellished to create limitless looks.

This is an evening boot made from taffeta. Actually you can make it using a wide piece of taffeta ribbon!

The boot is made exactly as outlined above. I wrapped the top of the boot with a piece of crushed taffeta and stitched it in place. Working in fabric is quite easy! Sewing is a breeze and the boot easily turns right side out.

Here is a pair of boots I once owned, myself. They were inspired by a design created by Japanese designer, Issey Miyake. Essentially, this is a short, ankle boot with a strip of leather that wraps around the leg. I made these from ordinary leather.

1. This boot begins like the ones above.
2. Again, I used a tiny bit of tape to keep the insole in place while I drape the style.
3. With a single piece of material, I wrap it around the foot and ankle. Mark the back seam and around the foot to make the pattern. Transfer to paper and add seam allowance.

 4. The top of my shoe soles are covered with paper tape. I cut a 9" (22cm) long by 3/8 (22cm) wide strip. Clip around the toes of the foot (along the bottom) then cut out notches. Fold the sides over and glue in place. You can hammer the edges to flatten.

5. Find the midpoint of each piece and tape in place about half way down.
6. Machine stitch in place. Place this on the doll. Use a piece of tape or string to hold the upper on the doll while working.
7. Apply rubber cement to the insole and around the notched seam of the upper. Allow to dry. Surfaces will feel tacky to touch.
8, Then fold the notched bottom over and press firmly. Apply rubber cement to the this as well as to the sole. Again, allow to dry. Surfaces will feel tacky to touch. Carefully press the upper to the sole.

The top strip wraps around the doll's leg twice. Note how I have not stitched this boot up in the back. The ties will keep it in place and most of my dolls will be able to wear this boot!

This boot also uses the pattern where there is only a single seam down the back. Here again, it requires no sewing. I used a glove weight suede. Instead of stitching the boot down the back seam, I punched holes in it and threaded a narrow (1/16 inch 2mm) strip of the same suede. Note: I used a darning needle to thread the strip through the holes. I folded and glued in place both sides of the boot along the back seam. (Note: Cut the boot slightly smaller so that a small flash of flesh shows through for this sexy look.)

 

 The fun thing about this, is that you can get as fancy as you want with your footwear.

I had an idea for a delicate bejeweled boot using sparkling organdy.

 

I constructed the boot with the single back seam even though the fabric doesn't stretch. I ended up with a boot that is a little wide in the ankles. Still, I like the leg that peeks through the sheer. I painted the soles silver and added lots of glitter to the heel and the top of the toe. Under a cloud of twilight sparkled tulle.....Stunning!

 

 

 

All photos and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2017. Please do not reproduce without prior permission. Thank you.

 

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Fancy Footwear: Stocking Shoes

I wanted to do one last tutorial before the end of the year. While surfing around the internet, I discovered a new trend...."Yeezy Sock Shoes" along with a few DIY ideas on how to get the look without the expense.


Yeezy "Sock Shoes"

Sock Shoes are neither practical (for humans) nor new (I've had a pair in my closet for MANY years). On the other hand they are perfect for the dolls!


Classic Stocking Boots

Some of you may remember that a while back, I did a post on spats for those of us who wanted to make boots to match our doll's outfits without the hassle of actually making boots. Those shoe coverings--which rest over the top of the shoe-- had the structure of rigid boot. On the contrary,  my dolly version of the stocking shoe, covers the entire shoe, is supple and form fitted to the doll's legs. In essence, we will make a pair of stockings that stretch over the shoe but allows the heel to poke through.

For this project you will need your doll, a pair of doll shoes of her choice and a small bit of 2-way stretch jersey or knit. (That means knit fabric that stretches both horizontally and vertically.)  Men's dress socks, tights, jersey, Tshirt fabric is perfect. I begin by making a pattern for my stocking shoes using a bit of Tshirt material. You can make them any length for a wide variety of looks, for both day and eveningwear.

1. Put a pair of shoes on the doll that you want as your base.
2. Decide on the length of the boot you want to create. For this exercise, I want thigh high boots. Stretch a bit of jersey around the doll's leg and around the shoe. Pin along the back of the leg, and then under the foot, being careful to leave the heel exposed.
3. Mark and make your paper pattern.
4. The final pattern should resemble something like this.

Cut out your pattern, then sew down the back seam of the stocking and again, under the foot, ending at the toe. Clip away any excess from the back seam. Turn right side out. Put the doll's shoes back on her and slip each stocking over the leg. Make sure the heel pokes out from the hole. You can adjust how much of the shoe back you want exposed afterwards.

I cut this from a pair of men's socks so as to take advantage of the ribbed knit top edge. Here is what my end result looks from front to back. Because these are stocking shoes (and not simply stockings) I glued a piece of leather on the bottom of the shoe. Keep in mind that there is a seam there which means it will not be at the same level as the sole of the heel. So use a thin leather or felt for your soles.

The stocking shoe adds a dramatic compliment to a long gown as well!

Both the dress and these stocking shoes were made from silver lame socks. Note that the doll is wearing the lavender chunky heeled shoes pictured above.

For a completely younger, more casual look, I used fabric from a striped sock and cut a short "sock boot."

I could have stopped there, but had still another idea when some stretch lace fell out of my drawer. Underneath, Renee is wearing light beige heels to give the illusion of a nude foot. Should you have problems with the heel poking through the lace as you slide it through your stocking...put bit of tape over the both sides of the shoe. When you get the heel through the back hole, you can carefully pull it away.

All photos and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. Copyright 2016. Please do not reproduce without first asking permission. Thank you.


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Ugg...Time to Reboot!!!

Up until today, we've had a pretty mild winter, here in the Midwest of the U.S. But this morning, mother nature ended all of that with freezing temperatures and a small blanket of snow. A couple of posts ago, we featured  junior models showing off the holiday sites in Paris clad in "ordinary" clothes. Quite a few of your dolls (and mine) spotted Jerry's "UGGS," a hot accessory on the cold streets of Paris. Though they are warm and comfortable, they are too wide, too flat and not sexy enough for my personal Then again, this blog isn't designed for me. It's for our little fashionistas and their friends! N'est pas???!!!

Due to time restrictions facing me when preparing that post, I took the easy way out by covering a pair of Barbie boots with bits of suede, tacking on a bit of sheepskin fleece around the top edge, and modeling a sole out of oven-bake clay. It wasn't the best looking pair of boots, but, my girl Jerry was happy with them. To my surprise, when she arrived back home, it grabbed the attention of other dolls, many of whom came running to me for a pair.  This forced me to study them more closely. Making these boots is really not difficult. The pattern only consists of four pieces: Upper, toe cap, inner and outer sole. And given the casual nature of this duck footed boot, it doesn't even have to be all that perfect. And while there are lots free patterns circulating on the internet for DYI Uggs, most are for 18-inch, flat footed American Girl dolls. All my models have high heel feet, so I decided to make a pattern to accommodate this. Creating my own pattern also allows me to make my own variations based on the styles the shoe company produces.

 

Jerry is wearing a shearling jacket she borrowed from the Ken dolls. (You can find this and the white coat tutorial by clicking here.) The jacket is made from leather with a wool fleece. Very thick (and not all that easy to work with.) Still, I thought, how cool would it be to make a pair of dolly Uggs out of "authentic" material!

 

 



Because my dolls were built to wear only high heels, I had to create a wedge platform.
1. I started out with a triangular piece of oven back clay.
2. Mold it to the bottom of her foot so that it lines up on the floor. Shave away the excess around the sides with a knife or blade. Don't worry about this being perfect because it will be hidden under the material.
3. After you have made one, make the other. I stand the doll up so that each sole will be equal in height. Bake this sole in the over (low temperature) for about 20 minutes.
4. Then, while the sole is on the doll's foot (you can tape it), put her leg sideways on a piece of paper and draw the profile of the boot. Her ankle is about 1/4-inch wide (5mm), so I've allowed 1/4" (5mm) on either side of the ankle. You determine the height of your boot. Since I'm designing this to have a cuff, my boot is 1-1/4" (25mm) up from the back of the heel. But yours can be shorter or taller.

 5. Once I've drawn the silhouette of my boot, I design what it will look like on the side. For this project, I wanted to keep things as simple as possible (especially since I'm working with a very bulky leather).
6. Trace off each piece then flip and trace off the mirror image from the center front of both the toe cap and the upper. Add a generous seam allowance. (For the white boot, I added even more than this to allow for the bulk of the fleece. Note: For the toe, I noted which side was up to ensure it would be attached correctly.
7. Glue the two pieces together. If you are working with leather or suede thin enough, glue the two pieces together to keep it stable, then topstitch it.
8. Cut notches in the bottom of the toe cap. I punched holes on either side. For the white boots, I decided to lace them up the back. For the black boots (below), I used tiny brads for the look of buttons. (You can also think of doing bows up the back!)
9. Apply rubber cement to the bottom of the wedge sole as well as to the underside of the toe cap perimeter.
10. When both sides have dried, press the boot to the sole. If you did not cut enough away for the notches (as is the case around the toe), now is the time to clip the excess away.

11. Because this was turning out to be a very bulky boot and I knew my outer dimensions would change, I waited until this step to create the outer sole. I took the boot and traced around the bottom of its foot. I'm using a heavy sueded leather for my sole for this and the black boot. You can also fashion your sole out of oven back clay, as I did with the original version.
12. I cut a very narrow strip of leather (2mm) for my laces. Because my fleeced leather was so thick, the grommets would not hold, so to get the laces through the holes, I threaded a very large needle and worked one side and then the other to the top.
13. From the back view, the boot looks like this.

In the original version, I had a couple of store bought buckles. But I didn't have any more so I made my own with a little bit of 18 gauge wire. (Click here for that tutorial.) The strap is wrapped around the ankle, gluing the two edges together at the back. I turn down the top edge and Voila. Very authentic looking Uggs. I'm happy with the end result, but I must warn you, the material was not easy to work with!

 

It is much easier to make them from a thin suede and add a tiny strip of faux fur for the cuff! First of all, working with a thinner suede means you can make a narrower boot and you can machine stitch the upper to the toe without any problem. For this boot, I decided I wanted buttons down the back. So all of the steps featured for the white boot are identical here. Except, I cut a shorter, more narrow boot and I used small "brads" down the back. (Like Jennifer's fur jacket? It's easy. Click here for the tutorial.)

So that you can see the difference amongst the three boots, we've lined them up for a closer look.

 

Up next: Some of our girls are out in Hollywood where they plan to upstage the stars on the Golden Globes red carpet. Stay tuned!!!!!

 

 

 

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