Dolls' Eye View: NY Spring/Summer 2019 Trends

Fashion is a reflection of the times. And today, no matter where in the world you are, there is a good amount of upheaval, dissent, confusion and chaos within our political environments. The same applies to what the girls are seeing on the catwalks of the world beginning with New York. Between the abundance of ho-hum ordinary frocks to the excess of wild and out-of-your-freakin'-mind-crazy  costumes, there is no logic to what many designers are sending down the runway. Very little is flattering. And much of what is actually wearable, is simply not special enough to go out of the way for.  We found beautiful eveningwear at Oscar de la Renta and elsewhere, but almost no interesting daywear.--something we find surprising But the good thing about dolls---they don't mind going back to the past to come up with a great look. We'll first take a look at the takeaways of Spring/Summer 2019, then we'll show you something wonderful we found from 2010.

Oh Natural!

Given the fact that we've had some of the hottest summers on record, I am really surprised not to find more sexy, cool looks. (Maybe everybody is wearing T-shirt and shorts?) In any case, the message here au natural in terms of neutral colors and fibers. Dresses  are long, body skimming (not tight).  Trousers are loose and shorts tend to be those over the need "Bermuda" variety. Just remember to...Keep it Simple!

Here's Grace in a raw silk dress with fringe. I've used the pattern for the basic knit dress and trimmed it with three layers of fringe cut from the same fabric.

Spring Forward

We're still talking about the neutral tones here, though they are sometimes teamed with grayed pastels. What we like here is the pairing of a jacket over lacy tops and slip dresses--all suggesting a casual elegance kind of look.

Pretty in Pink

This is another color story where everybody is thinking pink! It doesn't matter the shade--choose from bubble gum pink to fuscia in silky solids, stripes, patterns and even flower appliques!  In a nutshell, we see looser, wider pants and longer shorts on one hand, slip dresses and "Barbie" doll silhouettes on the other.

For Kimora (the "girlie girl" doll in the house, we started out with a basic lace slip dress (with ribbon straps) then covered it with tiny flowers. No, I wasn't able to find flowers that small. Instead, I removed the petals from regular sized silk flowers, cut them in quarters, twisted the center and stitched them to the dress!

Mellow Yellow

Color is always a welcome element on a summer catwalk. Here is the story of three delicious lemon tarts: a fluffy cocktail dress out of tulle, a strapless tea length gown and a pantsuit where the sides of the jacket and pants are outlined in matching buttons. Whatever you decide to make doesn't really matter. Just be sure to....make it in yellow!

Tar Babies

This group is more about texture than the inky, slippery color of the garments. This is about using fabric that glistens, that shines with the depth of an oil spill or a freshly tarred road on a hot summer day. Again, the garment is fairly simple. It's about letting the fabric tell your story. Look for black lame, midnight blue silk, cire or satin or even reptile embossed fabrics...

Fly Away With Me

A sultry cocktail of feathers and fringe, all fluttering in a warm summer's breeze. The girls were crazy about this glamorous mixed media that has so much movement incorporated into the style!

Hmmmm....so THAT's where Sarah Poulson (and our girl, Kelly) found their dress for the Emmys red carpet!

What's Your Point

We like the look of modernity illustrated by these four gowns...each  in clean lines with a different point of its own. The sculptural beauty of these sheaths is effortless, though the challenge of cutting the neckline is certainly there. I think the black dress has a few pieces to it, even though it almost looks as if it were cut in one piece.

For Nadia--standing all of 12.5 inches....I wanted to keep this look as simple as possible. Normally, I would have begun with a foundation undergarment, but I decided to make this in rayon jersey (which makes it hang well)  so I didn't have the same kind of control. The dress has side seams but no back seam or closure. (She slips out of the top of the dress.) A small circle of fabric is inserted over the thigh. And a simple slit at the was made as opposed to cutting the bodice in two pieces. I really would like to recut this dress, making the bodice in two parts. But keep in mind, the more seams you have, the more you have to solve the problem with...bulk!

While the selections from NYFW are quite nice....frankly there wasn't much daywear we liked. For that, we took a trip down memory lane.

Flashback to 2010: Donna Karan

Now this is what we like to see. For her Spring/Summer 2010 collection, Donna Karan (no longer showing on the catwalk these days) had one of her more gorgeous set of clothes. The silhouettes were simple: curvy little dresses and jackets cut in air thin layers--with twisted details that added a special twist. If I had the time, I would make all four of these looks. But with three more fashion weeks to cover, I settled on the one below.

We all loved this jacket. Finding a simple way to do it really isn't that hard. This is, essentially--a very simple fitted, unlined, jacket with a shawl collar. I allowed for a little extra fabric on the collar and the hem of the jacket. The edges are pleated, pinched and folded. I wet it and let it dry. I also cut an extra strip of fabric to sew under the hem of the jacket. When everything is dry, iron the jacket where you want it flat (sleeves, bodice and back) then carefully unravel the folded edges. You can stop there, or..do as I did, add a bit of the extra strip to the under side of the hem.

From front to back, this is what I ended up with!

Well....the girls have warned me there is not a lot coming out of  London. But we'll take a look anyway!

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Dolls' Eye View: Fall/Winter 18 NY Trends

There was a lot not to love at New York Fashion Week. It would appear the chaotic transition we saw last season, is still very much alive. Designers are throwing everything and the kitchen sink onto catwalks: bizarre color and pattern combinations, clunky clothes or simply....the same old stuff!  My girls are looking for something new and had a difficult time weeding out the bad from the good. So I told the girls to concentrate on styles for which New York has always been best known: simple, sophisticated silhouettes, easy to wear pieces with a touch of eclectic pizzazz .

Animal Crackers

It is a winter collection, after all. The girls loved the Rock 'n Roll feeling of Tom Ford's animal prints that ran over everything from blazers and tights to blouson jackets and tunics. What we loved in particular, was the abundance of animal prints sometimes teamed with metallics.

Natasha loved Ford's snake skin printed blazer and  leggings, but since I didn't have a comparable print, we decided to go with the leopard printed fabric similar to the far right jacket. It may be a bit over the top for some, but my dolls like the "more is better" concept of piling on different versions of the same animal theme print! Her square, padded shouldered blazer is worn over leopard printed stretch leggings.

And if that weren't enough....we topped it off with a faux fur jacket in a matching print!

Check Mate!

There is LOTS of black and white combinations planned for next winter. This can be as simple as a white fleecy coat tossed over the shoulder of a black turtleneck sweater and black slinky leggings, or it can be a giant checkboard dress trimmed with fur.

But for Liu, she wanted to stick to the classic look of a white "sheepskin" coat over a black turtleneck and skinny pants. The coat here is from our tutorial, "Fleeced!".

Tescla Trip to Mars

What would you wear if invited for a trip to Mars in Elon Musk's Tesla Roadster....it's a hypothetical question the girls began asking while looking at Alexander Wang's catwalk show. We all loved the kicky little dresses and ensembles all etched with silver zippers! We're going to set these photos aside and pull them out later after we get some metal zippers to experiment with! Another way to go--silver tights and shoes under a Tom Ford blazer! Houston, we have lift off!!!

Fruit Basket

My girls never get tired of black. But a few (and many of you) have been calling for color. It's not that color isn't on the catwalk. The problem has been the trashy, crashing way designers use it these days. But here, we were able to find a most delicious application of color. The silhouettes are simple, the fabrics luxurious. And for the palette...think citrus with a twist of raspberry on your next trip to the fabric store.

Family Jewels

Again, this is a story about color straight out of the jewelry box: amethyst, topaz and garnet or a pop of fuchsia.

Natalie fell in love with this hot pink dress by Oscar de la Renta. The fabric was a bit stiff for a doll dress, but the color was spot on! This is a standard dress: bodice joined with a flared skirt. The "embroidery" was painted on using fabric paint.

But let's not forget, this is a winter collection, so we added black accessories: a furry jacket and a pair of "gloves." 

Second Hand Rose

Anyone who has lived in New York for any length of time, knows all about its vintage shops. One trend we did notice was the return to garments with a distinct second hand look. Madras, velvet, art nouveau detailing, faded lace.....it's all about extracting the best of fashion's glory days in order to give a new direction to today's styles.

 I love the look of blush and claret. Violetta's dress is made in two parts. The top was fashioned with vintage lace, pieced together over her form to create a simple bodice. The bottom is a simple, evening length wrap skirt that opens in the front off to one side. I did not have velvet in this color, so I substituted a patterned silk. To further give it a "vintage" look, I cut out floral medallions from a length of lace and stitched them to the skirt.

But we weren't sure Violetta would be warm enough. So we added a cocoon coat made from a men's  paisley printed silk tie.

 Again, my girls' eyes were attracted to those sexy little dresses. It doesn't seem like much, but this is the kind of dress that goes everywhere! I chose a neutral silk to replicate the dress. I like how the straps wrap over the shoulders. But.....the doll is tiny. No matter what you do, the fabric will not drape the same as a full scale model. So we simply decided how the dress should drape and tacked those points down.

This is a very tricky color. I chose Meagan to wear this dress. The trick to making it work, once again, is by piling on the same or similar color. A big bathrobe coat is the perfect garment to wear over such a sexy little dress.

Pure Sugar

Again, pure white takes center stage next winter. These are simple-go anywhere-silhouettes with a touch of glamour....fur trims at the shoulders or hemline, asymmetrical necklines or the simple elegance of a bias cut fishtail gown.

Return of the LBD (Little Black Dress)

When in doubt...go with black....the little black dress, that is. There is a variety of fabrics, textures and chic all packed into the best looking black dresses. Consider asymmetry as a way to transform an ordinary dress into one of the hottest looks of the season.

 Laeticia' wears a very simple dress. We took the basic stretch dress pattern and cut this neckline into the front and the back. Since it stretches, there is no need for snaps or other closures. The dress can be worn by itself or with the over layers of draped tulle.

Skinny Black Tie

A New York night in the 21st century! It's a look that combines the ease and comfort of legging with the chic of a tuxedo jacket to be worn to those very dressy affairs.

Billie immediately grabbed a tailored jacket and a pair of stretch pants from the closet then headed out on the town.

This is a Fall collection, so don't forget the faux fur stole to toss over the shoulders when the party is over!

Twilight Time

Formal events call for something a tad bit more luxurious. So here we are....back to black shot with silver streams of silver sequins and sparkle. This can be as simple as a strapless, empire waist velvet dress etched with silver designs over the bust or a long shift streaming with silver sequins worn under a velvet coat. When duplicating this for the doll, you can make your own fabric by making lines of sequins and creating your own designs over velvet or attaching lines of silver sequins to a sheer fabric to recreate the look of the dress in the middle.

Well....fasten your seat belts.... Next stop....LONDON Fashion Week!

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Dolls' Eye View: New York Summer '18 Trends

The world is in a turmoil. And even if this doesn't seem to be related to fashion, it does appear to make an impact on the creative world. Politics and badly behaving human beings is on everybody's mind and the center of conversations everywhere. This distraction seems to have seeped into the pores of designers. What role does fashion play today...really? Who controls it? Who influences it? Who wears it? My girls have been all through my closets where they've learned about good design, quality clothing. So, quite naturally, they know what they like. But what we're seeing today is, well....challenging. The fashions appearing on most catwalks are all over the place. There has been a lot of eye rolling among my girls. But amidst the chaos, the circus costumes, the faux vintage looks, and "les artistes," they managed to find a few treasures. So hop on board...it's fashion month and New York is the first stop!

Brighton Beach Beauties

It's not often we see bathing suits on the catwalk, so the girls were thrilled to have a few new choices of things to wear to the beach. At the top of the list: these 2-piece swimwear as well as the classic bra top with shorts or button up wrap-around skirts.

Okay, so it's really not for the beach, but it's edgy and it's hot and that's all that matters to Radiah!

Urban Vibe

Streetwear based on simple elements: a T-shirt is cut, twisted and tilted over a basic tube mini. Or a bra with over-sized pants caught with a belt at the waist. It is simple. It is easy. And when kept in the monochromatic palette of black and white...it works effortlessly.

Graphic Language

Black and white, a seasonal favorite...takes its cue from key looks originating from the 60's, 80's and the 2000's. Silhouettes are simple and prints are eye popping black and white abstracts.

Here we had a little fun with Billie's dress. The checks we had on hand were not the right scale, so made a simple shift dress of white cotton and painted on our own checks. You can make your own magic with fabric paint or fabric markers from your local crafts store.

A black jersey top with a steep asymmetrical hemline worn over a pencil skirt of white rayon jersey is the easiest way to give dolly a chic, Madison Avenue look.

The Many Faces of Jeans

Jeans are now considered classic garments to be worn at any time of the day or night. Here we noted that in addition to the classic skirtwaist tunic worn over a lacy skirt or ripped jeans with a tailored jacket, jeans are also worn under a taffeta evening dress!

South of the Border

Here, designers celebrate the sass, the spice, the sheer femininity of our neighbors to the south. A look that began last season, be on the look-out for lots of ruffles that bounce from the hips, bell-bottoms dancing about the calves, dresses made from lace trimmed hankies and calypso dresses with miles of flounces!

As cool as a summer's day...Akure's outfit is as easy to make as it is stunning. We simply took a rectangle of cotton and wrapped it in the middle with a ribbon that ties at the back of the neck. This bra is worn over the classic circle skirt that opens down the front. And it's all in cool, white cotton!

For evening, Shakira chose this sexy look. It's a simple wrap skirt with flounces spilling down the side. On the top, she wears a "barely there" T-shirt made from a single layer of silver tulle. We added a few adhesive pearls over "strategic" areas, then layered ropes of pearls around her neck.

The Long and Short of Things

Though we think knee length is the newest, most stylish way to go today, there are no rules when it comes to hemlines. All lengths co-exist to bring some of the coolest looks for summer. Most noteworthy--a long tunic spills from under a hip length blazer worn over short, pencil thin pants; a waist length, square shoulder. Again, cotton lace is big. And everyone is showing lots of shoulder!

Fringe Benefits

On the move, a skirt, a dress or maybe even a simple belt sports lots of motion to the total look. We especially love the unexpected combination of a cashmere sweater worn over a sarong skirt with a hem chocked with lots of spaghetti fringe. But you can easily take an existing garment and make it swing with the simple addition of a fringed belt.

Little Black Dress 2.0

The little black dress is alive and strong on class and style. The summer 2018 version adds little details that make it anything but boring. Think one shoulder, no shoulders, belted or halter neck. Again, consider making your dolly's dress in the sophisticated under-the-knee length. Add a bubble skirt at the bottom or a rim of bouncy ruffles for a distinct feminine edge.

We started out with a basic strapless sheath out of stretch velvet for Marpessa's dress. We added a row of ruffled satin across the top of the dress which blend in perfectly with the removal sleeves. The sleeves, by the way, are small tubes with ruffles stitched into the center seam. (The photo at the top of this post shows how this dress looks from the front view.)

Dinner at 21

The five looks featured here are classics in the world of New York high fashion. There's nothing revolutionary here. Just basic shapes in beautiful fabric: silk, satin, sequins, lace appliqued onto tulle.

Botanical Garden

This is a very pretty group that starts with flat, floral printed silk and extends to appliques and tiny silk flowers suspended into tulle. A very pretty way to dress dolly up for formal summer parties!

Raspberry Pineapple Sorbet

The garments are all very simple: a basic sheath, a classic jacket, wide legged pants. Perhaps even a kimono coat. It's the color that tells the story here.

Summer Cocktails

Look for tulle to be big next summer. The girls were particularly drawn to these dresses which resemble iced, sweet, summer cocktails. And yes....there is a tutorial on tulle on the horizon!!!

In the meantime...I decided to mix my own drink....a Bellini (peach nectar and champagne), inspired by the swirl of tulle of the Oscar de la Renta dresses.

Stormy Weather

The concept is pretty much the same as Summer Cocktails except...in place of color, these dresses start light and descend into a swirl of black.

Veronique's dress started out with a sheer foundation of sheer white organdy. We draped a medium gray sparkle tulle around the body, asymmetrically, then added a pouf of black tulle to finish.

Okay, we're just getting started. Pack your bags. The girls are headed to London next!!!

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