Dolls Eye View: Golden Globes 2019

This year's Golden Globes Award show had a Versailles moment. Strolling onto the red carpet were celebrities clad in good old fashion glamour. Yes, of course, there were some misses....as usual..but there were quite a few hits which is why my girls love this event so much.

Lady Gaga in Valentino Couture

The star of the night for us was Lady Gaga's "Marie Antoinette" powder blue gown. It was grandiose in style, sumptuous in cut, borderline historic costume which blew everything else out of the water. And at the end of the day....it was the way my girls like to see red carpet fashion. Let's not forget..these are actors receiving international press awards for being the best in the world of film and television art. The performers could and should have as much fun, passion and drama in the way they put themselves together as they do on the screen. Frankly...Lady Gaga delivered in a gown from Valentino Couture!!!

I was so captivated by this dress, I did an extensive search to see as many views as available. After a hundred or so photos, I concluded, the look could be replicated fairly simply. For the dolly version, I used a strapless princess line dress with long rectangular train. The sleeves are separate from the body of the dress and simply slide onto each arm. I created a small tube, then a simple pouf (rectangle gathered on the top and bottom) which is then stitched onto the tube. (This is similar to a sleeve we made for a jacket which you can find HERE.) I added ribbon which wraps around the wrists into a bow because I thought it added a sweet  touch to a dress that could easily waltz around the Hall of Mirrors at the Chateau Versailles in France.

But the strapless dress with train was not enough. Lady Gaga's gown had lots of volume on either side due to another train. So I shaped and gathered another 1/2 yard of fabric at the top and tacked it to the back of the dress. I needed the dress to pouf out over the hips, so I added a double layer of ruffled fabric underneath the train over each hip. If you look closely in the first photo, you see this peaking out a bit (which is why I made the ruffle in the same fabric as the dress.)

Note: I wanted to make this dress out of silk taffeta, but did not feel like driving 20 miles to the nearest fabric store. So I settled on some acetate lining I had on hand. The result was still pretty. The only thing I didn't like was Lady Gaga's hairstyle. Though the idea of tinting or adding light blue streaks to Morgan's hair was something I had considered!

Gemma Chan in Valentino Couture

While it wasn't quite as grandiose as Gaga's Antoinette dress, Gemma Chan (Crazy Rich Asians star), clearly was on the same wave length. Here I did have some silk taffeta on hand. Gemma's gown, another beauty from Valentino Couture was a mixture of old and new. We liked the halter neck bodice over shorts tucked quietly under miles of a voluminous skirt. When I looked at the dress carefully, I didn't like so much the little bit of draping details in the front of the dress. So I cleaned up the look with a simple halter neck top that ties in the back over a simple pair of shorts and a big circle skirt. I also did not want to cut a real train, so I cheated. I took a square of fabric, folded it into four, gathered the center point and tacked it underneath the train so I could get the look for this photo shoot. Later I can remove it so that it's simply a more modern (and shorter) 3-part dress.

Katherine Zeta-Jones in Elie Saab

This is a standard classic, draped couture gown--which is why I selected this look. It starts with a foundation made from the same fabric as the outer dress. The rest is pure drapery. All the folds are carefully held in place onto the foundation with tiny "invisible" stitches. She gets in and out of the dress at the back.

Allison Janney in Christian Siriano

Again, I like this idea of a simple dress with a dramatic details that transforms it into a work of Haute Couture. I also fell in love with the color of the fabric Christian Siriano chose for his dress. (I found and old blouse and recycled the fabric for this project.) This is a strapless, fishtail gown. The sleeves are two tubes attached at the underarms at the side of the dress. Another width of fabric is folded into tiny drapes and stitched along the neckline and over the sleeves.

Thandie Newton in Michael Kors Collection

Now we've come to the Hollywood goddess portion of our program... We have a LOT of silver dresses in the house. But my girls' eyes always get really big whenever they see metallics! This Michael Kors Collection gown worn by Thandie Newton was a little bit sad, but had a lot of potential. From my point of view, the skirt part of this gown should have been a bit more fitted which is what I did for the dolly version's 2-piece gown. It is a simple wrap around blouse I cut a bit short (into a bare midriff top) over a slim evening skirt. We also though Ms. Newton could have used some jewelry and a silvery shawl. (Stylists...where are you??!!!)

Keri Russell in Monique L'Huillier

Under normal circumstances, I would have fitted this onto a doll with a smaller bust line than Natasha's. Again, however, this dress was chosen because it is silver and we liked the dramatic drape in the front. The original dress is intriguing but the neckline--for our tastes--drops too far down past the waist and looks a tad bit matronly. I made this dress out of stretch light silver lame in two parts: a fishtail evening skirt joined with a top that made from a piece of fabric literally draped over the torso of the doll. It was an interesting exercise in draping. The result....well....I'm not so sure I would make this dress again....but all my dude dolls are looking at Natasha and smiling! 

Lena Waithe in Prada

There have been other actresses sporting pant suits in the past, though admittedly, the severity and starkness of the Prada tuxedo worn by Lena Waithe did call for reflection. Is this an expression of gender, a statement in support of the #MeToo movement or simply, a personal decision to opt for comfort and sobriety over decorative fashion. In any case I wanted to respect Ms. Waithe's choice by not altering her look too much. So, I dressed Zoe in a tuxedo suit and turtleneck, and added just a touch of glamour with a more edgy necklace and a faux fur stole.

Emily Blunt in Alexander McQueen

This is a nod to all of my super talented dolly friends who are soooo good at crochet. (You know who you are, Olla, Kamelia!) I have neither the skill nor the patience for this art. What I can do is to take vintage lace trim and make a mock crochet dress out of it. The Alexander McQueen dress worn by Emily Blunt is a work of art in silver. We loved the way the dress ends in a lacy trim of its own. For Ingrid, I used two types of crochet lace. Two strips are joined together at the sides and fitted over the body into a slinky sheath. Another, more loosely crocheted trim is added to the hem and over strategic areas of the body. The dress opens from the neck down one side to the hips and is fastened with hook and eyes. Note: For more ideas on turning lace trim into a dress look HERE.

Kiki Layne in Dior Couture

Kiki Layne in Dior Couture reminded me of the kind of tulle dresses we made last year for our younger Barbies.

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Dolls' Eye View: Golden Globes 2018

This year's edition of the Golden Globes red carpet was as unique as the awards ceremony itself. It marked a change in culture where women stood up and spoke out against the culture of sexual harassment in the workplace. A group of 300 leading celebrities came together to launch the #TimesUp Movement--an initiative that hopes to put an end to the decades of sexual harassment, pay disparity and discrimination in both the entertainment industry as well as women everywhere who are struggling with the same issues. To mark their solidarity, many stars arrived on the red carpet, clad in black. While the gowns they wore weren't what I would call, extraordinary fashion, it was very elegant, making quite an impact on the red carpet. In fact, this was an excellent exercise in the power of black and the versatility of the basic black dress!

Zoe Kravitz wore a simple black velvet sheath from the house of Saint Laurent. This dress is a staple in my dolls' wardrobe because it serves as a blank canvas, on top of which, you can put absolutely anything. This is a strapless sheath. With a few modifications, it can be quickly transformed into several looks.

To get Dakota Johnson's elegant Gucci dress, all I had to do was to take the same sheath dress and add straps (1/8" ribbon), a belt (made from ribbon and a rhinestone earring), then tack a length of lame to the waist at the back. I love evening gloves, so I simply made two small tubes from the same stretch velvet I used to make the dress!

This Alberta Ferretti dress worn by singer, actress, Mary J. Blige, immediately attracted my girls' eyes thanks to the contrast of velvet and lame used in the dress. Again, I started out with a strapless black sheath dress. I scooped out an arc on one side of the sheath and sewed in (stretch) silver lame. I used the same fabric to make a single sleeve (a simple tube attached to the sheath). I rolled a small strip of the lame around the neckline and added a horizontal strap which drapes over the sleeve.

This is, again, another instance where I already had the strapless sheath lace dress. (The removable sleeves were taken from another dress.) Cut a large circle of fabric and tack the midpoint to the back of the waist. Voila, your doll now has the same look at Penelope Cruz who wore a lovely gown from the New York house of Ralph & Russo.

 I am not usually a huge fan of fishtail dresses. However, the body of this Dolce Gabbana dress worn by Mariah Carey reminded me of a vintage Patrick Kelly dress hanging in my closet. If this dress looks slightly familiar, it's because the body of the dress is the same as the sheer tulle Dolce Gabanna dress featured in my last post. This version is made from a lightweight rayon jersey using the same pattern. I simply added a diagonal strap across the shoulder and attached a fishtail (made the same as a circle skirt), just below the knees!

Here is the same dress (but without the fishtail), worn under a tailored bolero jacket. Very similar to the Tom Ford outfit worn by Gal Gadot.

We've seen this suit before (including here). This time around it is signed by Stella McCartney as worn by Claire Foy. It just goes to show the value in taking your time and making well fitting classic garments!

This is another classic beauty that will see a lot of wear in my house! Award winning actress Viola Davis looks wonderful in Brandon Maxwell. My girl had to have this dress too. This is a well fitting basic sheath dress (using a basic stretch dress pattern) in velvet where I've cut a sweetheart neckline. The good thing about stretch velvet is that it doesn't unravel as this dress is not lined (and has no closures)! The doll simply slips into this dress!

One shouldered fashion seems to be the big news of this red carpet,. Again, a very simple dress with a single sleeve as worn by Gillian Anderson.

The girls couldn't take their eyes off this very unusual dress by Versace and worn by Saorise Roman. This is a basic sheath dress with one square padded shoulder (with set-in) straight sleeve. The opposite shoulder is normal with a "jeweled shoulder pad"extending over the exposed arm. (For the doll version, I fashioned the pad out of oven baked clay which to which I applied glitter before gluing onto the shoulder!). The bejeweled triangle at the opposite side of the waist is an iron-on product which extends from the center of the back to the mid-point of the front. 

To create this empire waist, Giambattista Valli dress worn by Kendall Jenner, I retreated to my recent post on Tulle dresses!

We just love the old fashion glamour of a 50's inspired pant set, designed by New York designer, Christian Siriano for Christina Hendricks. For my dolly version, I made the top from a tube of black stretch velvet and fashioned a sash that stretches shoulder to shoulder out of taffeta--the same material used in the pants and over skirt. Think of the skirt as an apron worn with the fullness in the back and open in the front.

Since the fabric in my possession had the larger sequins, I chose Aayeesha, one of my Tonner dolls to dress. This Probal Gurling draped gown worn by actress, Kerry Washington, starts with a strapless hip length foundation, open on one side. I draped black sequined fabric (click HERE to see how) over the foundation so that the folds radiate from one side of the dress.



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Doll's Eye View: Golden Globes 2017

It's that time of year again....the first red carpet event of the year! The Golden Globes! My girls love these types of galas. It gives them an opportunity to rival, if not upstage the actresses present on the red carpet!

In covering these events over past few years, I've noticed how the fashions at these events have become increasingly simple in line. Emphasis is placed more on the fabric rather than the cut which presents a particular challenge for choosing what to make. There were a few gowns I passed on simply because I couldn't find a similar fabric or print. Still, I was able to make a few which I share with you here.

This dress, designed by Armani especially for Janelle Monae, really compliments the actress' personality. I was immediately attracted to it for its fancifulness and originality. But I wasn't sure if it was a dress I'd want after making it. However, Iman, pictured here in the dolly version, insisted on having this dress. The bodice is a simple bodice cut from a band of mini sequins (perfectly scaled to the 12" doll). The skirt is a bubble skirt gathered into a satin ribbon waistband. What is difficult to see in the initial photo is that atop the white bubble is a single layer of tulle, to which black disks are attached.

I love slinky gowns with a bit of draping. Of course, getting the look is tricky due to the weight of the fabric. The trick is to select a silk or, in this case, rayon 2-stretch jersey. It's thin enough get the folds (which are controlled by slip stitching them in strategic spots).

Sometimes simple is challenging! I assumed the criss-cross draped bodice of the yellow gown would be pretty easy. But alas...it took me a day to arrive at something I could live with. I decided to do this dress in two parts: a corset over a slim, high waist sarong skirt. I began with a waist length foundation piece (for structure), over which I draped softly pleated fabric which criss cross over the skirt. I could have used a China silk, but instead I wanted something with more body, so I used, instead a polyester. Silk would have produced finer drapes over the bodice but I feared the skirt would have been a bit flimsy. In any case, my dress is INSPIRED by the original Atelier Versace dress. so I am still happy with the result. Eva need something else...so I gave her a white boa in addition to her pearl necklace.

At this year's even, there were a number of women who appeared on the red carpet in a tuxedo. The jacket is the one from my post on Yves Saint Laurent. The trousers are a standard pair of pants, but with slightly wider legs. The blouse (cotton) was made with the basic bodice sloper but with a front closure. The bottom front edges were cut diagonally away from the center front. A long, rectangular strip was added to the neckline which wraps around the neck twice and ties into the bow.

 

For another tux, Kathy wears a bra underneath a slightly shorter jacket and the same, wide trousers.

 

The focal point of this Armani Prive gown is the horizontal beading on the silver satin. I was able to recreate the look of this fabric using metallic ribbon with "ribbing" that resembled the beads. I sewed the horizontal edges of each band together. However, you don't see where I've sewn those bands together because I discovered that I could glue strips of ribbon over those seams and iron them in place. On the other hand, in my first attempt to duplicate the exact neckline, the ribbon frayed terribly and I discovered that with this very stiff material, it did nothing for the doll. So I decided to simply decided to "sculpt" the ribbon over the bust into a 3-dimensional form. Naomi still felt this dress was missing something, so I gave her a long shawl of silver lame to toss over her shoulders. Admittedly this dress is more of a "craft project" than a real dress. Nevertheless, Naomi has made me promise that she will get first dibs on this dress next holiday season.

I don't know what it is about velvet that makes me want to make a dress out it..especially at 1/6 scale where with tiny details, it is difficult to control. I liked this "Dowton Abbey" sort of gown with its draped cap sleeves and long train. For the doll, I decided to lower the neckline which made the sleeves fall slightly off Karen's shoulders. Personally, I think the dolly version looks less matronly than the original dress.

 

The dolly version of this Tom Ford dress is a simple strapless dress made from black sequins. If you can find stretch sequined fabric, you could make it by simply making a long, skinny tube the length of the doll. In any case, it still needs something else. So Lana brought her attitude as well as a whiff of bejeweled, black tulle.

 

Coming up next....part two of our last post...but this time we have a few more ideas on......Footwear!!!!

 

 

All images and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2017.

 

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Doll's Eye View: Golden Globes 2016

Red carpet season is back beginning with the Golden Globes Awards. I still have issues with these formal events due to what I see as a lack of good old fashion glamour. For me, the dresses are lacking in interesting cut, beautiful (Italian) fabrics, and accessories. I have nothing against simplicity, so long as it's brilliant and flawless in execution. However, most of what I see today is rather.. ordinary. In part, it's the fault of the designers. Inasmuch as I am not seeing a lot of interesting dresses on the couture runways, I shouldn't expect much on anyone's red carpet. I put the rest of the blame on the stylists, who don't seem to have much in their repertoire when it comes to dressing women to look like queens. My girls were rather bored, but I refused to give them the option of coming home empty handed. So we compromised. I allowed them to improvise.

The most intriguing look for all of us was the custom designed Versace Haute Couture dress worn by Lady Gaga. True, your average woman (or doll) cannot pull off this dress, but the construction of this "Ace of Spades" velvet gown was amazing. Moreover, Gaga with her "Marilyn Monroe" hairstyle and her legendary sense of drama, pulled it off in spectacular fashion. I chose this dress, fully aware it would (and did) create all sorts of problems from the panne velvet fabric (way to bulky for the doll) to the padded (Kardashian) hips. I should point out, the original dress has lots more fabric in the skirt which I simplified to suit my doll, Brie.

I love how the neckline of the dress drifts off the shoulders and plunges deep over the bust. The darts are sharp and pointed while the fitted bodice gives way to an exaggerated, hour glass silhouette. I draped this dress directly on a spare doll body To get the shape of the hips, I taped cotton balls to the form and draped the fabric around it. It required two deep pleats to steer the fabric away from the form. The sides are then tapered back towards the body. I inserted a 3/4 circular wedge at the center back, just under the hips. At first I sewed in a tuft of pleated tulle above each hip, but the dress drooped, so I made tiny hip pads to maintain the shape. Working with the velvet was not easy. The proportions are slightly different, due, in part, to the bulky fabric as well as the difference in body proportions. If I were tempted to try this dress again, velveteen might be a better choice of fabric.

Very striking on the red carpet was Jennifer Lawrence in a fire engine red Dior dress. Though this dress is the epitome of understated elegance, it is anything but easy to make! I used a sheath dress pattern for the dress and a basic bodice top (without stitching down the darts) for the sleeveless bolero. In reality this outfit is really an exercise in trompe l'oeil. What seems to be two distinct pieces in the front, comes together as a single piece in the back with a keyhole over the torso in addition to the ones over the hips. My sheath fitted perfectly---that is, until I cut the holes over the hips. I had to make a lot of tiny stitches to hold it to the figure for the photo shoot. Moreover, my dress has darts while the original, which I believe was cut from a silk crepe, does not.

If I had the time, it would be interesting to find another alternative by draping a new pattern directly on the doll's figure.

My doll Samantha was not happy when she saw me choose the bubblegum pink Prada dress worn by Katy Perry. The dress was a banal slip dress, blending into the actresses natural skin tone. "So bland!" lamented Samantha. I made the 1/6 scale version using the wrong side of a silk satin.

The trick in getting my doll to wear it was in the accessories....opera length gloves and a furry shawl!

Karen was rolling her eyes at first over the Ralph Lauren's blue 2-toned gown worn by Kate Winslet. "B-O-R-I-N-G!!!" she cried. While this look works for a more intimate affair, I personally feel that a Hollywood fete commands a more glamorous gown, even if you do it through accessories. I remained faithful to the overall spirit of the Ralph Laurent gown. I used rayon-lycra jersey for the body of the dress and silk for the triangular insert and trim.

But to bring more "excitement" to the look, I added a cocoon made from polyester organza (another fun, instant glam fabric to be the subject of entire post in the near future).

And then there was that Stella McCartney white silk jersey gown worn by Taraji Henson, star of the hit TV drama series "Empire." And yes, Taraji did look wonderful in the dress, and the long train does add a certain amount of glamour, but jersey is well....a bit overdone. 

My dress for Yvette really has little to do with the McCartney dress other than the fact they are both white and have trains. I started with a foundation underneath then used a woven lightweight polyester to drape a more interesting neckline. I even took liberties with the train, fashioning the top edge into soft ruffles. The end result is softer, like whipped cream over the body.

Lessons to be learned here: Dresses with lots of gathers and fabric must be simplified to reduce bulk. When translating a full scale outfit into something significantly smaller, consider fabrics best scaled to the doll, even if it means a less fancy fabric. It is more important to capture the "look" or the spirit of the original dress than to attempt a line for line copy! And one more thing...don't be afraid of a challenge. You learn through your mistakes!!!

 

 

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